[Dennis Taylor]

I am new to this yet, and trying to figure it out...I have a 800 & 8000 grit stone, from Santa, but I would think the diamond stone would be the best for shaping, I would like to hone the knives flat, I just think it will produce a chip and easier to sharpen without worrying about the bevel....what grit of diamond would I be looking for?.....couldn't you use the small pocket type diamond stone for shaping only and then my 2 cermeaic(SP) for the polishing?...Dennis

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

you could use the flat diamond sharpening pad and then go to your stones. I started with 4 grits of sandpaper, 400, 800 1200 and 2000 and then strop....works and is cheaper...now I have a burke sharpener and also have some diamond flat pads because I have made some knifes, specifically the razor knives and don't trust myself to do the finish under power LOL, might get over enthusiastic and burn the steel!

[Dennis Taylor]

I was looking for a diamond stone only to use for the shaping, I understand they are much more aggressive than ceremaic so I wanted to get a good diamond stone grit, I wouldn't use it for anything but shaping, but figured it would remove metal faster....what is a good shaping grit?...Dennis

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

for shaping the razor knives, I have smaller diamond pads in coarse, medium, fine and extra fine and use all and work my way down.....I still end up with the sandpaper of 4 grits and then the strop............my way, not the only way for sure.

[Dennis Taylor]

I suppose my question is this: Asked Santa for the Moor knives and 2 ceremiaic(SP) stones, one is 800 the other is 8000, and also I just got two Barton knives off ebay a week or so ago, I think, once again I think, I would like to try and flatten the blades on the Barton knife, and figure with a 800 grit stone, it would take some time to flatten, hence the diamond stone idea....but maybe sandpaper is cheaper and easier?...can you provide some sandpaper sharpening techniques?...I have a piece of plate glass that could be used under the paper, what grit would you want to start with?...and what type of paper?...Wet & Dry?....Dennis

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

the grit would be determined by how much metal you have to remove....a neighbor bought one of Dennis Moors knives, and the supply house (not Dennis Moor!) said it was sharp, it was not only not sharp, it was barely shaped, now one like that I would probably start with maybe 150 or 220 grit, I don't like to get below that or you start putting some deep gouges in the metal which have to be taken out somewhere down the line. If if seems close to you, start with 400, then 800, 1200 and 2000 and finish with the strop. no secret to how to sharpen, lay the blade flat and pull away from the edge, keeping the blade flat and on the plate, and when you turn the blade over, lift it, don't tilt it or you will round over your edge....do a few strokes on one side and then the other and back and forth trying to do the same on each side..........

[jmroth75]

Something that works pretty good for getting a knife back in shape, or originally in shape, is the abrasive mylar films. They come in sheets like sandpaper and in different grits. I bought some sheets from Lee Valley in the 5 micron size (I think). Attach a strip to something flat and hard and use it like a strop, working away from you. Water stones work good also, but you have to make sure the surface is flat. Also, when you use the ceramic stone, I have found an improvement if you add a drop or two of water to the stone. Do not use oil on ceramic stones. The best stop material is pigskin. It is harder than leather and still holds the compound. Better for chip carving knives; I never use leather strop on my chip carving knives, it will ruin the bevel.