Chipping difficulties..

[Shadojack]

Greetings all,

I was wondering if anyone can shed some light on a problem I'm having. For some time I have been trying to get back into chip carving, but I keep having a hard time with getting an even wood appearance out of the removed chip.

I can take a chisle and smooth out the areas which go with the grain, but against the grain is still a problem.

I have tried wetting the wood which helps, have kept my tools as sharp as possible, and have tried to do it with small chips and large chips, but still can't seem to get a good clean chip out. Now true I'm not using the best wood, mostly layerd bass wood from cheap imports which may be contrubuting to the problem, but I haven't found a place for solid wood items as of yet.

Any advice would be greatly appriciated.

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

try sanding the surface smooth before you start,use rubbing alcohol to wet the wood and recheck the sharpness of your knife....then take a piece of scrap and see if you are maintaining the angleBouncing S

[papasar]

Happens to me when the wood is too dry. Even though the knife is sharp the cuts appear kinda shredded. Try Dave's solution or or re-hydrate the wood by placing in a plastic bag with a moist sponge.
Bill K.

[Shadojack]

Rubbing alcohol? I've used that between layers of clear protector after sanding, but never on dry wood.

I do my best to keep my angles where they should be, but I'm sure its not perfect.

I got a small box I'm going to make into a jewlry box for the misseses, I'll put it in the bag with a sponge and see if that helps. Any hints as to how long it should set in there? I'll try the alcohol as well. Trying to make a cross for my grandma and I want it to look as good as possible.

[jmroth75]

If your knife is really sharp, as it must be, and you are using a good quality basswoos, there shouldn't be much difference cutting with or against the grain. The problem usually can be attributed to an edge that is not as sharp as it should be. If you must dampen the wood, you can mix alcohol and water and mist it on the piece, but it really won't penetrate very deep. Putting the wood in a plastic bag with a damp cloth or spnge helps, but it takes a long time for the moisture content to change significantly. I think you problem is really with the blade edge not sharp enough. Good luck.

John

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

you can buy small empty perfume spray bottles at wallyworld for about 35 to 50 cents...and they put out a fine mist, really all you need, it will evaporate fast but at about .79 a quart....who cares? I don't mix with water, you can, but would suggest distilled if your water has any minerals that might stain the wood..imho I have also heard you can put it in the freezer....but all that stuff is not up my alley...."when I wants to carv, i wants ta carv lol! "Cowboy

[mhudspeth]

I think your knife needs attention. It has to be what I call scary sharp and it should cut cross grain and leave a polished surface. Dry wood can make carving more difficult so I toss the wood into a plastic garbage bag with a wet towell for 3-4 days. Use scrap wood to support your carving wood above the towell and seal the bag tightly.
Good luck
Mickey H.

[heineda]

Hello,

When I first started chip carving, I really struggled with the cuts against the grain. I was trying to teach myself with a couiple of "sharp" knives, and a book. I finally decided to take the beginning course with Wayne Barton, and found out how wrong I was. We spent the first three hours of the class sharpening on the ceramic stones. About 2 hours on the rough, and another hour on the white fine. Only then did I truly uinderstand what a sharp knife really is. I was amazed by how much my chip carving improved with a really sharp knife.
There are also two schols of thought on maintaining a sharp edge on chip carving knives. Wayne condemns any form of stropping, while Dennis Moore strongly encourages it. In order to keep a keen edge on my knife, I strop it often using 0.5 micron abrsaive paper I buy from Lee Valley. I attach it to a strip of hardwood with spray adhesive. This insures that the edge will not suffer the "roll over" that a leather strop can create. After 10 strokes on each side, the knife is not only sharp, but is polished to a gleaming surface, reducing friction as it travels through the wood. I have also rubbed stropping compound on a peice of hard, flat wood, and stropped with that, it does much the same thing.
I would suggest taking your knife back to the ceramic stones, and give them an at leat an hour on each stone, then strop with the compound on a bare, flat, hard board, and try your chip carving again.
I have also found that Ron Wells sells a chip carving knife that is delivered almost ready to carve. A bit of stropping, and it's ready.

Happy Chipping,
Dan Heine