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Relief and Chip Carving | |||
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#11
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Contrary to "the book sez", I like to think outside the box. This is pretty much the same system I use for scroll saw work which I do a lot of. I can run finer lines on my pattern/template by printing, and gluing on, no line size disparity, smudging ,or smears like transfer paper or lead pencil problems. For some reason it cuts cleaner too. |
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#12
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| I have had no success with heat-transfer of laser printed designs Hey Mike, I can help you find instant success with heat transfer of laser printed patterns. I do it all the time and it is really slick. Also, you can see the wood grain rather than having it covered by the paper pattern. Let me know if I can help. Marty@MyChipCarving.com |
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#13
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scroll sawers use a spray adhesive, comes off pretyy easy you might have to use a bit of alcohol or turpentine occasionally ' |
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#14
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u can use 3-m feather adhesive its the same that u use on a d/a sander to put the sandpaper to the dics
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#15
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To transfer a pattern there are two methods I use. First is the heat transfer method mentioned by Marty at MyChipCarving.com. It uses a pattern transfer tool made by Wall Lenk. You need to use a reverse of your pattern printed with a laser printer or copy machine and then just "iron" it on to the wood. Works great for small to medium areas. For larger stuff I use a pattern transfer method I learned from Mickey Hudspeth who makes many larger area carvings. This method also requires a reverse of the pattern made with a laser printer or copy machine. You line up the pattern on the wood and take a cloth slightly dampened with lacquer thinner. Lightly rub on the back of the paper holding the pattern and the toner from the pattern will transfer to the wood. You need to experiment first to get the proper amount of wetness as the pattern will run if you get it too wet with lacquer thinner. Try it first to see if you like it.
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