Barton VS Moor ceramic sharpening stone

[DaveB]

I am ready to enter into the art of chip carving and trying to make decisions on equipment to purchase. Can someone explain the difference and their preference of these ceramic stones. Moor's stones are 800 and 8000 grit whereas Barton's stones are 600 and 1800. Why is there such a large difference in grit between Moor and Barton especially with the fine grit? Does the finer grit of Moor imply you will need to sharpen longer or maybe allow the knfe sharpen more frequently with the possiblility of doing less damage to the knife?

Thanks for you input

Dave

[CarverRog]

To me 8000 grit would just take longer to reach the mirrored finish. Barton's 1800 does just fine for me. The 600 or 800 grit stones I don't think most people can really tell the difference between the two unless they were side by side. These grits are really only for taking a nick or broken tip out of a blade. Good Luck!

[Gulf Coast Handyman]

I prefer the Barton stones. Welcome to the forum.

Dave

[Jschipcarving]

This can be the most frustrating topic related to woodcarving. However it doesn't have to be there are a thousand methods which can get you satisfactory results. So don't stress too much over it. Be leery of people who tell you that their way is the best, it might be the best for them, but not you,especially if they can't tell you at least ten other methods that they have tried. I think that anyone that understands anything about sharpening, knows it isn't any miracle product that gets results, it is technique. There that should ruffle some feathers. Just joking about that last part.

[papasar]

I have a half dozen ceramic stones and use then sometimes. I still prefer to use my leather strop with "YELLOWSTONE" compound for my chip knives. I find it works faster. Its also a lot cheaper. I can buy a couple of very good knives for the price of some ceramic stones. IMHO
Bill K.
Bill K.

[CarverRog]

Originally Posted by papasar

I have a half dozen ceramic stones and use then sometimes. I still prefer to use my leather strop with "YELLOWSTONE" compound for my chip knives. I find it works faster. Its also a lot cheaper. I can buy a couple of very good knives for the price of some ceramic stones. IMHO
Bill K.
Bill K.

I will have to agree with you on the strop and yellowstone but after a long period of time of stroping it will round over the point just enough to where you think it is sharp but not as sharp as it could be. When it reaches that point I use the creamic stone to sharpen it back to the single flat bevel then strop for the final cutting edge. This works for me.

[papasar]

Rog,
You are 100% correct. Those are the few times I use the stones.
Hey, I'm a creature of habit.
Bill K.

[DaveB]

Thanks for the advice. I am trying not to add stress to myself, that is the primary reason why I am trying to develop this craft or art. I wish to relieve it. The reason why I am trying to get it right the "first time", which may be an unrealistict expectation, is that I am in the ranks of being unemployed. If my significant other finds out that I am going to make this purchase I probably will be chip carving in the proverbial doghouse. There isnt anybody local to ask such questions. I have been doing all my reseach searching the internet relying on forums such as this and the wisdom of experience carvers that participate in answering the questions submitted.

Again thanks for the advice

[Jschipcarving]

I am taking a class next weekend, even bought a new knife for the class. the teacher of this class told me that sharpening stones, and leather strops can destroy a knifes cutting edge and profile. I am anxious to see what his method is, guess there are lots of right ways to do it. Here is a thought if you don't want to spend the money on the stones you could use the sand paper method, I use that on my pocket knife, and my carpenters chisels.

[CarverRog]

Originally Posted by Jschipcarving

I am taking a class next weekend, even bought a new knife for the class. the teacher of this class told me that sharpening stones, and leather strops can destroy a knifes cutting edge and profile. I am anxious to see what his method is, guess there are lots of right ways to do it. Here is a thought if you don't want to spend the money on the stones you could use the sand paper method, I use that on my pocket knife, and my carpenters chisels.

When I teach a class of chip carvers I tell them that I'll teach them how I sharpen my knives which works very well for me but if they chose to sharpen their knives a different way more power to them. There is no right or wrong way to achieve a sharpe knife as long as you are happy with the end result, a carving to meet your standards.
I was teaching a class in a local Woodcraft store and a Shapton sharpening stone representive was going to demostrate his sharpening stones after my class. He was watching how I sharpen my John Dunkle knives using only a strop and Yellowstone compound and after the class he wanted to compare my knives with his which he sharpened with his 8000 grit stone. He used a microscope to view the cutting edges of both and all he could say was "Oh! Your's are pretty good." My knife was hands down sharper than his and the microscope proved it. I felt pretty good about that. Good luck in that ever you decide to do.