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Relief and Chip Carving

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  #1  
Old 12-06-2009, 06:30 PM
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Default almost perfect ...and then

can anyone tell me of a repair paste, substance or that can be udes to fill in those...chip outs usually at the center of a rossette or some other anoying place. Can the materail ? be put in place and carved over??


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  #2  
Old 12-07-2009, 10:49 AM
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Default Re: almost perfect ...and then

I would use a real two part epoxy. I don't like putty for rebuilding its fine for small holes and non structural cracks.
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Old 12-07-2009, 11:06 AM
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Default Re: almost perfect ...and then

If I get a breakout during chip carving and I am lucky enough to find the chip I can repair it. I use plain old Elmer's white glue and put a dot on the chip and hold it in place for a couple of minutes. After it is dry I recut the piece.
The repair is almost unnoticeable. I've also used a plug, so to speak if I can't find the chip. Not so easy but doable.
Bill K.
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  #4  
Old 12-07-2009, 12:39 PM
North of 49
 
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Default Re: almost perfect ...and then

Right on Bill. White glue is a carvers best friend. Sometimes you can even glue in a new piece to recarve.
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Old 12-10-2009, 11:58 PM
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Default Re: almost perfect ...and then

When I get a chipout, I use a dab of Loctite super glue gel. Boy, they sure can be a challenge though when they're tiny.

If it has a little gap around the chip I press a little sawdust into the glue. (from the same wood I'm carving) into it. It makes for a very nice repair that drys quickly, sands, accepts stains and finishes nicely.

I keep little prescription bottles with fine sawdust in them. They come in amazingly handy.
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Old 02-14-2010, 12:06 AM
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Default Re: almost perfect ...and then

I've used both methods as well. The only problem with the CA (superglue) is that if you stain it afterward, the stain doesn't take real well and you can end up with a white spot. If you just use a very small bit, it can work well. JMHO :-)
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Old 02-15-2010, 01:54 PM
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Default Re: almost perfect ...and then

On the note of "light spots" after minor, or even major repairs.

If you have a repair that refuses to take stain you can use a very fine brush


WHat I like to use is a little denatured alcohol. Moisten the brush in it and then drag it through the stain that has dried on underside of the stain can lid or the gooey stuff that that sticks to the lip of the can.

It gives you a fairly quick drying, concentrated touch up medium. If you've a patch that the woodgrain goes all the way through, you can actually paint the grain pattern back onto it making the repair nearly invisible to the naked eye.

Just remember when putting on your final finish to go gently on the touch up area or it may rub off or blend out.
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