[squbrigg]

Hi folks,

I want to venture into unknown waters this winter and try something completely different, for me anyway. I want to 'try' and carve my Siberian Huskey, in the round, in Butternut. I've never attempted an animal carving in the round before, just some relief figures and ships figureheads, that sort of thing.

My dog, Kira, my best friend and companion, is a female, about 63 lbs, has very traditional Siberian markings and has a wonderful expressive face and a fantastic disposission. This dog is so tuned in, she knows not only what you say to her, but usually what you are going to say!

I've done some sketches of her to get a feel for the lines, lots of photos and of course she lays still for long periods to let me model her. I want to carve her in her favorite curl, head up, ears alert, kind of a relaxed canine curl. She lays next to me like that all the time, when I: read, carve, rest, use the computer or eat.

I have a blank glued up, and have been studying Lori Irish's book on 'Carving Fox, Wolf and Coyote'.....but.........I'm a bit shakey about starting. I don't find the book that great regarding the carving process itself, great on finishing and texturing, but not on getting started.

So....out goes the plea to this experienced group for help!

Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.

Regards,

Bob.........the Experimentor

[Paul_Guraedy]

I have not carved a dog either. But, I do not believe that starting is any different than other carvings. The first thing I do is to get down to the equivalent of a roughout. Removing waste wood is not a problem. Then I concentrate on getting the head/face satisfactory. I, like most people, take a good look at this part of a carving and if I am not happy with it the rest of my work would be for nothing and the piece becomes kindling. I don't neglect the rest and carve on it, but not to the extent that I do the head. By not working only on a single part, I take a fresh look when I come back to that area. In the same manner, I keep about 4-5 carvings going at any one time. Work on one a while and then another. When one gets close, I finish it and start another.

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

I see that a lot of carvers start with a clay model....might consider that....

[BobD]

Jack Kochan also wrote a book about carving realistic dogs (we had an excerpt in issue 28 on carving a dachshund). I don't think he actually shows how to carve a husky in ther book, but he has some good general techniques for dog carving in general as well as a good anatomy lesson on dog forms...

Bob

Simplified anatomy of dog:
4 legs
A cold nose
A warm heart

Hey you guys, dont carve up a dog I had to give my dog away when I moved back to civilization. Were near the hwy and would have to keep a dog tied. I miss a dog in the worst way, and when I read the posting about the siberian husky, well its enough to bring tears to a glass eye. a picture when your done with the carving. Hugh

[Paul_Guraedy]

I could not agree more with the use of a clay model. This is the method that I use prior to starting in carving. I use the non-hardening type and keep quite a bit of it on hand. If the carving is large I build a frame of wire and aluminum foil for the clay. Once you are through with it simply set it aside for the next carving.

The best way to keep the clay soft is to take a cheap styrofoam ice chest, make a hole for an electrc cord, put a socket on the end for a light bulb and put a small wattage bulb in there (careful that it does not touch the sides of the ice chest). It will keep the clay just right for working. You can even put the model in there to soften it for manipulation.

If I am in a hurry, I have used the microwave (15 seconds at a time and try it); but, be careful, I have not gotten burned YET but have been scorched a time or two.

This allows constant repositioning until you get exactly what you want. Then taking measurements on the clay model makes it a lot easier to finish in wood.

I was not thinking back this far in the process when I sent my first reply.

Bob, I would reccomend carving it in sections. Do each leg, body, head, snot all seperate, that way you'd have the grain running in the proper/strongest direction. Add a little bit to one end of each and cut a tendon (mortise the other to accept the tendon). Depending on how you carve the tail, you may want to carve it seperate also.

You may also want to consider laminating the body so the inside is hollow to save on wood and weight.

You'll end up with a quality piece that is strong enough if someone where to sit on it, drop it down a flight of stairs, etc.

[squbrigg]

Good ideas guys....clay first sounds like a plan. I like your idea of sections Randy, though I'm going to have to study that one....I plan to have her in the curl, so I'll have to see what I can come up with.

I appreciate the help and advice.....now all I need is courage and skill. As I said to someone here lately, it's only wood, so carve away. So I had better heed my own advice.

Sorry to hear that you had to give your dog away Hugh, as I don't live near civilization (who ever said Miramichi was civilized), I can enjoy mine, and she can enjoy the great out-doors too. With all the snow on the ground this morning, she kicked up her heels like a new puppy on our walk this morning. If a dog could giggle,...... I swear she was!

Bob

[jamesfa]

bob-i think i would start off deciding what pose i would like,and then take pictures in this pose the pictures would be at 90 degrees of the front,back. sides and top.these i would use as a basis for a working sketch.
clay sounds like a logical next step(i haven't tried it)
then just get a block of wood and remove everything that is not in your model live or in clay

Frank