preening Canvasback Drake WIP follow along.

[RMitchell]

Here's a Canvasback drake project I started today and ill do a sequence of photo shots with brief synopsis of whats going on in the photos to explain my thought processes in creating a unique decoy .
I decided on the canvasback drake because I received a hefty check to make one from a client in Chesapeake Maryland .(Best reason to make one a truck payment)
The decoy is a open wing preening or prepreening pose which is dynamic for an otherwise monotone unexciting duck.I will emphasis the head and neck to capture the muscular duck that this species conveys .
Pic 1&2 shows my pattern developed for this decoy top and side views are matched and transfered to my basswood block in pic 3 .In pick 4 the block is cut out on the bandsaw .While the block is still square I cut a 1/2 inch slab off the bottom of the basswood block and then reattach it with 3/4 in wood screws and then cut the pattern out .By doing this I can remove the slab later after I shape the decoy and remove wood inside the decoy to lighten it up..
Mitch

[RMitchell]

After I cut the blank out on the band saw I transfer the feather groups necessary to define the wing and other feather groups like the cape the side pockets and tail feathers I draw and erase freehand changing and drawing right on the cutout .This is a fun process and the free handing will make the decoy unique not so pattern rigid and easier to see changes .When I like the feel ill begin to remove wood. All lines will be refreshed as I remove wood the lines keep you anchored in a reference point and show where you need to stop cutting as well.
Ill set the body aside and draw up a head pattern and cut out.
Mitch

[Wildbirdcarver]

Never thought about drawing out the feather groups before I carved out the basic shape. Like the idea very much. Thanks for this concept! DM

[RMitchell]

In this set of 4 pics you see the head pattern I made to fit the body position .
Leave the neck thick and I cut out only the side view so I can have more freedom to determine the position of the head on the body .in this decoy the head is turned over 180 deg to the right this will push the neck roll in the body to form a bulge .
Over all I like the feel to the cutouts and will begin removing wood .I will carve the head first then attach it temporarily top the body then shape the head neck to flow into the body smoothly and then shape the body after I remove the head again.

Thats all for now later gater
Mitch

[RMitchell]

Here I am shaping the head above the cheek ridge next ill reattach the neck and carve the head neck twist .I leave the head heavy at the neck base so I can blend into the body block when I temporarily attach the head to the body.

[RMitchell]

Here I reattach the neck and mark the position of the twist then I carve the neck to head to flow as one .Ill use epoxy later to attach and fill the seam

[RMitchell]

Here is the head sitting on the body .to give you a better idea of the head twist neck to body connection.And the flow of the preening pose .The S curve of the head breast is repeated in other areas of the decoy.Next ill set the head aside and carve the body to shape photos to follow.

Mitch

[RMitchell]

The next 4 pics cover the body shaping and photos are worth a thousand words so look at the pics.I always do the side without the open wing first to give me a perspective to the wing side .I use a 2in Saburr course teeth to hog this block down to a rough shape .
Willy at the duck blind carries the Saburr brand bits in case you dont have any call Willy.

[RMitchell]

I further define the wing and tail removing wood to my stop marks .I will also redraw the lines if they get sanded off.I shape under the tail to thin it and under the wing to make it pop.
Mitch

[RMitchell]

In this set of pics you can see the shape emerge I just use my own senses when shaping I don't use calipers or measure you can develop a feel for the shape of a duck by carving them over a zillion times .Its like playing scales on guiitar one day you just do it without thinking its muscle memory from years of repetition.I carve alot of cork and it has helped me to carve better wood decoys by strengthing muscle memory.
The more free form carving I do the more unique the bird seems to be . You have to trust your instincts at times but its electric when you get in the zone.I have talked to a lot of carvers that have left the rule books and carve by the seat of there pants .
Mitch