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Animal and Bird Carving | |||
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#1
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I am presently creating a branch using brass tubing etc. Based on some insight from carvers in this forum and viewing the beautiful work they have done I have decided to try this method. So far so good. The branch has shaped up pretty good but now I'm faced with critical questions for completion. The first would be what needs to be done to the branch to prepare it for painting? And second, How do you make the branch look real (bark etc). Do you coat the brass with liquid molding paste and put your artistic talents to the test or is there another method? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Bob |
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#2
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You first need to clean the brass thoroughly. You can use fine steel wool or sandpaper. You want to remove all the gunk left from soldering. To get into tight spots you can use a Q-Tip and isopropyl alcohol. You will also want to prime the metal before painting. Some people use the metal primer that is used in auto body work. Others will spray it with 2 or 3 coats of Testors Dullcote or a similar product. As far as making your branch look real, the first step is to carefully examine a real branch of the type you are copying. I would suggest that most small branches (new growth) are fairly smooth. If you make the branch too lumpy and bumpy you risk drawing attention away from the focal point which is your bird. I find that a mixture of texturing past and gesso does a nice job of adding a bit of texture to the branch. It can be applied with a stiff brush and will provide a realistic look. I am trying to attach a photo of a silver maple branch I did recently but am not having much success. Tom Park - Wildlife Art
__________________ www.mts.net/~tpark Last edited by Tom Park; 02-09-2010 at 12:24 PM. Reason: spellin correction |
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#3
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Here are photos of the silver maple branch. (Thanks Ken for your help in posting pictures)
__________________ www.mts.net/~tpark |
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#4
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Bob, you can't get any better instruction than what Tom gave you. Depending on the size of the branch or wire used, you can use apoxie sculpt or kulis karvit. they can be carved when dry. Tom did an outstanding job on his habitat Jerry |
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#5
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Tom your instructions are amazing,your willingness and continued assistance and how gracefully you are always available to help those of us that are to still learning from your experience,thank you. Oscar |
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#6
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Tom Your help in this area is GREATLY appreciated and your maple branch is outstanding, just outstanding. Not only does the branch look great but the maple leaves are so realistic. I'm just amazed at the abilities of people such as yourself who are able to accomplish tasks such as these, and are willing to share their successes with others. I know I may be pushing my luck here, but how did you make those leaves look so life-like? Beautiful! Jerry thank you for your info as well. I have kulis karvit but never thought of using it in this project. Thanks you both Bob |
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#7
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Thanks for your comments Bob -- also Jerry and Oscar. I am doing an article for WC Magazine on the construction of this branch. In the meantime I'll describe a bit of how the leaves are made. I often use paper and follow methods similar to what Ken has described in his excellent series of descriptions. For this piece I needed something a bit more durable so I used .003" brass shim stock. For a pattern I used photocopies of actual leaves. The brass was cleaned thoroughly with fine steel wool then the pattern was spot-glued to the brass using a glue stick. I cut out the leaves with manicure scissors. The veins were pressed in using a stylus with a ball end. I kept a real leaf beside me to check the pattern of the veins. The brass was placed on a firm but slightly cushioned surface -- the inner pages of a telephone directory work well-- and each vein was pressed in using one smooth continuous motion. As the veins are pressed in the brass loses its flatness and begins to take on the contours of a real leaf. The stems are #16 and #18 copper wire which is soldered to the leaf using the tinning method. I learned the hard way that the leaves should be completely painted before they are soldered to the branches. Here are some photos that might help.
__________________ www.mts.net/~tpark |
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#8
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Tom Excellent description of your method, and the pictures certainly help depict your description. You mentioned the tinning method. Would I be correct if I said that you would heat the wire hot to accept the solder, then wipe it so the solder adheres to the wire. Then heat it again to affix it to the branch? I'm not sure my understanding is correct? Could you please confirm? I assume that the leaf is also coated with Dullcote before painting? The colors you used for the leaves seems to be right on target, they look awesome. I'm presently in the process of working on a branch anew. The past two just didn't make the cut, and I know this info will help tremendously. Thank you very much for you time and effort. Bob |
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#9
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"I learned the hard way that the leaves should be completely painted before they are soldered to the branches." Tom, could you explain in more detail your experience. It would seem, please understand I have never done this, that the heat source would scorch the paint.... Thanks for your help and input. |
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#10
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Tom, You're sure giving phenominal advice. I'm enjoying (and learning alot) reading your advice here. Thanks for being so willing to share your talents! Mark |
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