First cuts in feather carving

[woodchips4u]

Hi from way out north-west here in BC Canada

As a new-ish carver I struggle with variations on that same old theme of "How do you do that?" on initial feather layout and carving.

I have tried using a white stone or diamond to layout secondaries and primaries; using a burner, using an exacto knife, using a "V" tool, gouge, pocket knife, my thumbnail etc etc.

What works best for you bird carvers? Specifically those first cuts following those carefully laid out pencil lines?

Thanks

Larry

[markken5889]

Hi Larry,

I use the gouges for rough-out work and close to finishing, then use some dremel work with bits and sanders, give it a good hand-sanding with 5 different grits, then woodburn the final details.

Good luck with your work. Hope that helps!

Mark

[kenweybright]

Hi Larry,
I use primarily a safe end cylinder to layout the hard feathers, such as the primaries and secondaries, after laying them out with a wood burner. The burner I use is a Razortip, with about 30 degree bent skew, which I bent myself. There are many methods folks use to lay down the hard feather. I lay the soft feathers in, creating a variety of feather groups of humps and bumps, then stoning the individual feathers in with an altered white cylinder stone.
Lori Corbett, Whispering Eagle Studio, has and excellent demo on her website, regarding creating soft feathering.
Hope that I may have been a little help.

[Hugh-P]

Hi Larry, like Ken, I use a safe cylinder. a larger diameter, cylinder, with the safe end, and like Ken I use the Burning Pen first, to lay out the hard feather shapes. Hard feathers are Primary, Tertial the Tertial coverts and Tail feathers. I use my burning pen on its side to press down the wood, not to make a stop cut. When using the safe end cylinder it tends to make ripples along the edge. Using the burning pen to iron or burnish the edges creates a hard surface that will help the safe diamond bit to run straight and smooth. Then use a pencil sander to take out any dips and hollows. At this point, be sure to taper the edges of your hard feathers, so they come to a fine edge. At this point , use your burning pen to define the point, rounded or pointed, of your feather where it overlaps the next feather group. (again, not a stop cut) When running the safe end cylinder, pay attention to the speed of the power carver, a medium speed or less, according to how it is cutting, take small cuts going back over them to achieve the effect you want. hope this helps.
PS. the safe end cylinder bit has no abrasive on the end, so just the cylinder is removing wood.

[torpidhummer]

Larry,I use to live in an area in Oregon,where there were few carvers and far between,I had little computer knowledge (still do} but once I learned the value of one, I connected with folks on this forum. There are so many variations in carving detailed feathers with everyone seeking to carve realistic feathers. I found out there are no right or wrong way to seek the ultimate realistic looking bird. What I first did was purchase two DVDs recommended to
me, Flyod Sholz,Carving & Painting the American Kestrel and Frank Russell's DVD, Fur and Feathers. I checked out various web sights by bird carvers,and did a great amount of resaerch on the subject bird I intended to carve. I adopted comfortable way to carve, there so many that encorporate Hugh's advice, I do at times,there world known great bird carvers that use only knives,gouges,etc,research any and all bird carving articles and books you can afford,continue doing what you started,ask the folks on the forum. Hope I didn't confuse but it's working for me.

Oscar

[kenweybright]

Hugh,

You referred to a pencil sander. I have done an internet search for "pencil sander", not satisfied with the information. What is a pencil sander and where do I get one? Can't have too many tools or tricks of the trade.
Thanks

[Hugh-P]

Ken, excuse my calling it a pencil sander, it is a Sanding Detailer, and has replacement belts, Grin. If you can't find it in the dealers books, PM me, can't advertise on the site. Cheers

[kenweybright]

Hugh,
I understand now. Thanks. It is similar to using modified emery fingernail boards, with the exception that it has a small belt to get the most use of the sandpaper. Thanks for clarifying it for me.

[Paul_Guraedy]

I guess there are quite a few methods for carving bird feathers….as in most things woodcarving. Laying out the feathers is the second step. Let me state from the start that I do not go totally realistic. So, the first step is defining the types of feathers (Hugh talked some about this). For me, feathers fall into two categories soft feathers (breast) and hard feathers (back and flight). Soft feathers are not laid out individually but in groups. I like to have a rolling or lumpy look rather than the slick look that is more realistic. I gouge out the areas around the groups to achieve this. The feathers are then stoned in a pattern that hints at individual feathers.

Hard feathers are first laid out with a pencil until I get the look I want. Care must be taken to draw in the feather groups primaries, secondaries, etc. These are fairly well defined and can be gotten from a number of references. For most of the feathers on the body care should be taken to avoid “soldiering”. They are not all in nice neat rows of the same size. For me it is easier to work from the bottom of the bird toward the head.

Once drawn in, I lightly burn them in and use a V tool to outline. Again I work from the bottom of the bird to the top. Take care and watch which feather should be lying on top of which. It is easy to end up with a pattern that does not make sense. My next step is to cut away the bottom and sides of each feather using a knife or pointed stone. I then go over the feathers with a stone and lower the sides and bottom of each feather to rest on the one below. This procedure causes the feather to take on the shape of the bottom of a boat. Finally I burn in the vanes and feather separations.

I’m going over all of this in my head; but, think I got all of the steps in there. Lot’s of work and going over and over; but, well worth it in the end. Bird carving is all about detail.

[markken5889]

that's really a great description Paul. Thanks for articulating it so nicely!

Mark