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Animal and Bird Carving | |||
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#1
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I posted in the painting and finishing area, but I would like some opinions from you guys who do wildlife all the time. This whale (Humpback) will be the topper for an indoor weather vane. I would like to have the grain still showing, but I'm worried that a thin wash will run. I've only ever used an acrylic wash for my finishes, so please give me some other solutions. The top of the whale should be black, and part of the underside, the flukes, and under the tail should be white with some black spotting. Thanks, Vic
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#2
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Nice carving Vic. I don't know what type of acrylics you use but you should be able to use washes to have the grain show without it running. I use Jo Sonja brand personally but it shouldn't really matter. If you plan to have a fairly clear line between the black and the white you'll have to apply them individually and let the first color dry. If you try to apply them at the same time as in a wet on wet technique you'll only end up with a gray area between them. Lets say you apply the white first. Which I would do because it won't cover the black at all. Let it dry. Then apply the black. If you wish to have some fade out of the black instead of a harsh line,which might not look so good..you can then add clear water over the white and blend the black into the water to get a softer edge. It might sound confusing in print..but seeing it done ,,,and the consistency of the paints it works very well. Generally speaking apply the lightest colors first.Then you can go back and add the black spotting etc. that you want to see on the tail etc. Even though I have my favorite brand of paints..I've used this technique with most any other brand and it still works great. Pretty easy to control and you can still have the grain show through the paints. One thing you will encounter is some fuzzing up of the wood fibers. A light coat of sealer followed by some light sanding will handle this..or if you don't want to use a sealer you can spray it with a bit of water and alcohol to lift the grain,,then proceed with the painting. After ,,you can then seal the whole thing if you wish with anything from a dull coat to a gloss finish. |
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#3
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Thanks for the encouragement, Mark. When using washes, what consistency should I try for, and should I use a dry brush type of application? So far on my projects, I've used just a few drops of color with an ounce of water (very thin) and hard to control, or maybe I'm just getting carried away and loading my brush too much? Are you saying to seal and sand prior to painting? Seems like a wash would really want to run then?? Thanks again, Vic |
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#4
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Hi Vic, Boy I wish you were here to physically show you. Reading about something like this can be difficult. Seeing it answers questions immediately,,,but I'll try. It sounds ,to me at least, your wash is too thin. The consistency is more like skim milk. The color is still there,,and as you apply it if you need to,,you can dip your brush in water and still move the paint around on the surface to adjust it. Now here is the question. To seal or not to seal the surface. In my experience trying to paint directly on bare wood,,you can do it,,but wherever you put your brush that tends to be exactly where the paint will stay.It soaks in so quickly that it's hard to play with it once it's on the surface. You can do this if the surface is almost damp,,but here again you are raising grain and when all is said and done ,,and the paint is dry the piece will have a rough fuzzy feel. I have done quite a few birds. One in particular was Bob White Quails. Here during the burning in of feather details..the burning looked exactly what the feather colors should look like.I wanted to keep this without painting over it all. I sealed the section with Deft and was still able to apply washes over the area to adjust the colors and still add a bit of color here and there and have it all blend seamlessly. Part "bare wood" and part paint. You could still see,,,but not know ,,you were looking at the wood through the paint. Sounds close to what you are shooting for. So I would try a light coat of sealer on a scrap piece. Let the grain raise a bit. smooth it with maybe a Scotch Brite type pad and paint away. You now wont' have the problem of watery paint soaking in quickly to the dry wood. You'll be able to use multiple coats of a now much thinner paint to build even color without streaking and building even color and lessen a blotchy look. And by applying the white first you'll be able to lay the black up to it..add water over the now dry white section and "fog" the black into the now damp white section. I wouldn't imagine you want a hard sharp line between the black and the white,,right?Very seldom in nature do you have sharp lines of demarcation on an animal. Then again,,you can paint it any way you like. In this scale it would still look just fine. I just think that without a sealer the painting is a bit more difficult. The paint soaks in and that's that. you can't control it any more,,or very little. And the finished surface always has that rough,,dull,,sandy look to it. Maybe you don't mind that,,or possibly what you're looking for But many times even using a sealer over this finish..it's still rough,,and it's difficult to sand the surface smooth without damaging a thin wash of paint. Don't know if this helps,,but it's a start.Photo's might help,,,but wouldn't show the actual consistency of the paints,,but it might show what results are possible. Let me know. |
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#5
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Thanks again, Mark. I believe trying on a scrap pc. is exactly what I'll do. The sanding sealer first is the way I'll go. I'll try to post some pix then. Vic
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#6
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Happy to be of some help Vic. But I was suggesting that I post some pics and do a quick sample...though I would like to see what you come up with.
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#7
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Hi Vic. nice carving.As to painting the wale and having the grain show on a basswood carving I think will be quite a challenge. acrylic paints are Transparent, Semi Transpaent and opaque depends on the colours .Blacks & whites being opaque. Jo sonia paint charts indicate the paint types. Do some testing on scrap wood first .As to sealing Water based sealers will rais the grain and sanding might be required. I seal before painting my birds with a mixture of Lacquire and laquire Thinners wixed 50/50 as a rule 2 thin coats. Gordo. |
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#8
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Hi Vic, I agree with Mark Y for technique. I use Janssenart Traditions myself, and really like their sealer. Always seal the wood before painting, especially with the acrylics. Otherwise you get those fuzzies with the basswood. Great job with the carving! Mark |
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#9
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Thanks, guys. I'd hate to do a nice job on a piece and then screw it up when I paint it! Vic
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#10
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Guys, I finally finished this whale. I tried all kinds of finishes and ended up using oil stains. Hard to get a white stain with enough pigment to show and still get it to dry. I learned a lot though! Thanks again for your input! Vic
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