Detailing feathers with a stone

Bob DeBusschere · #1 11-15-2007, 05:31 PM

I’m looking for some advice on texturing with a stone. I have tried to learn this on my own but haven’t had any luck

. I have always burned my feathers in, but really like the realist look that the stone can achieve. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

falconer · #2 11-15-2007, 06:26 PM

Bob, I think the key to stoning feathers is touch or the amout of preasure you apply to it. This is one of those skills that takes practice just like burning. I always start stoning from the outside edge of the feather drawing it into the shaft. Don't worry about getting it perfectly right up to the shaft you can go in later and match up the strokes. For the most part I only stone if I have a really light area that I have to paint later like the Bald Eagle's head that I'm working on now. Try to create a sweeping curved motion while stoneing I always practice on scrap before actually putting it on the carving. Also, as a rule, the larger the feather, the larger the stone and only a white stone as these are 400-600 grit and create a smooth surface. I hope I have helped you in some way. Be happy to answer anymore questions you have.

www.sierracreekstudios.com

sierracreekstudios@yahoo.com

Bob DeBusschere · #3 11-15-2007, 06:35 PM

Falconer,
Thanks for the advice, I will have to try this. The stone I was using was gray. I will have to get a couple different size white (400-600 grit) ones.

falconer · #4 11-15-2007, 06:39 PM

Bob, I notice that you are from Michigan. I'm originally from Michigan also, born in Owosso and raised in Flint. where are you located? Migrated to California about 20 years ago.

www.sierracreekstudios.com

Bob DeBusschere · #5 11-15-2007, 06:59 PM

Falconer, I lived in California, in Martinez (79-94), then came back home to Fair Haven, which is around the Detroit area. Drive through Flint a few times a year.

falconer · #6 11-15-2007, 07:10 PM

Bob, You need anymore help just hollar!!

www.sierracreekstudios.com

cedarshavings · #7 11-15-2007, 07:23 PM

I'm glad you asked this because I am working on a feather and was wondering the same thing. Mine is a single owl feather, actual size. The detail in the feather is so fine that I wasn't sure what would be best. I was working with a saber bit that is made for taking out a lot of wood and with light pressure it makes good looking detail for a feather but I'm a little scared of trying it on the feather because right now I have it carved down so thin.
I know a stone is good for fur but would you be able to keep it steady enough for the veins on a feather?

falconer · #8 11-15-2007, 07:31 PM

Cedarshavings, the way I do veins or shafts of feathers is I draw them on the feather first making sure of the look I desired. Then I use my burner with a skew tip and burn on the lines that I drew. The next step is to burnish right next to the burn lines which creates a raised shaft. Always, after burnishing use 220 or 320 grit paper to blend everything in and get rid of the burn marks. It only takes a soft touch with the burner to create this effect.

www.sierracreekstudios.com

mark yundt · #9 11-15-2007, 07:57 PM

One thing to keep in mind,,the stoning tends to really help the short feathers especially around the neck,breast etc.. As the feathers get larger the texturing tends to get more,,rippled looking? And if your're doing a large primary flight feather they tend to be fairly smooth with flowing ripples along the outer edges near the end of the feather.If you look closely at most birds,,be it a duck or songbird,,they really are fairly smooth surfaced little buggers with the stoning getting mostly burned away yet adding a subtle variation to the surface.
I've carved a number of single primary or long tail feathers ( pheasants and eagles) and I basically carved the ripples on the surface as I saw fit,,then thinned the back down to match the surface on the front. That way you don't run the risk of punching through the feather and can keep it a bit fuller in thickness and still have it appear paper thin while still providing the material you need to carve the feather.It's much easier that way.

If this is confusing I could do a quick sample to show what I am referring to.

bird carver · #10 11-15-2007, 08:13 PM

Hey Bob here is another pointer, when you start using the stone make sure your edge on the stone is sharp otherwise you won't see the individual veins in the feather. I sharpen my stone flat at the end by using a roughing stone, this stone has to be harder than the white stone you are using. The stone you are using for the effect of softness gets packed with wood fibers and oils left on the wood that is why it needs to be sharpened when you notice the detail is not there anymore. Good luck!

Bird carver</IMG>