Thanks for all the encouraging comments which always provide that little extra "ummph" to do the best that I can and then try to stretch it a little more!
Whew! This has been a busy day and I only got to carve on the little man for about a half hour and I'm gonna try to get in another hour tonight. I did manage to get most of the leaves cleaned up and that has been some intricate, detailed carving but still as fun and relaxing as ever! Should be ready for painting really soon.
Susan: I happened to be looking at the woodspirit carving photos of Shawn Cipa in the "Woodspirits and Greenmen" book when I was carving the facial features and that is probably why the much welcomed look of the eyebrow line took effect. I also concentrated on making the cheeks more "puffy" like his than my usual run-of-the-mill flatter cheeks. I also put in a different set of eyes than I have normally carved which I hope turned out more like those of Shawn's because they look so realistic.
As many woodspirit-type faces that I've carved over the years I'm always looking to try new things and many times I'm pleasantly delighted. I stopped with the nose and kept my old traditional one, but I'm gonna look at improving those details also on future faces. Sort of funny how our own unique style of carving continues to evolve over the years. Sometimes I can go on forever without trying to change anything then all of a sudden... Wham!
And thanks for the suggestion of adding a leaf on each side of the handle joint area. You really have a gift for "seeing" the little additional things that bring more balance to an art object and I apprecitate your eye! As a matter of fact I believe that I'm gonna give it a shot. Perhaps I will begin the stem of each leaf at each side of the joint, then carve the body of the leaf at a downward arc then swishing the tip of the leaf upward to the top center of the handle. Here the two leaf tips would almost touch each other at about half the distance between the joint and the end of the handle. Hmmmmm? Or perhaps I should aim the leaves toward the front of the handles end? Actually, I believe that I'm now leaning toward this option since the leaves would then be visible even when the cane was in use. Maybe that's what you meant anyhow. Sorry, I didn't mean to write a book on this but I do like your idea! Thanks.
To all, I went ahead and uploaded the tenon joint pictures to this thread since it appears they would be helpful to have in one place. As mentioned in the cane making thread I only intended for this to be an experiment to see if the tenon cutters that I have for making rustic furniture would work for making a tenon on the staff of a cane. But as things go I just couldn't seem to put it down, then one thing led to another until the green man was suddenly born! I have a very nice set of tenon cutters that I got from Lee Valley and this link should get you there if interested:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,180,42288&p=42299
I uploaded the pictures a little out of order so view the pictures in the following order:
In the
second picture I have the handle and shaft joined (no glue yet) showing the exposed tapered smooth shape that the tenon cutter produces. This exposed taper is really beautiful, strong, and a desired look when making rustic furniture but it concerns me when used as a single joint for a cane.
The
first picture shows the joint after I tapered the mortise freestyle with my dremel. I believe that this type joint has great promise for attaching the handle to the cane so I'm now looking for a tool to make this final taper perfect... maybe something in the line of those tapered countersink bits. I'll have to look into this one because cutting them freestyle is never "perfect".
The
third picture shows the top of the handle where the glue has been applied and I have also driven a dark colored poplar wedge into the tenon. That's the same method I use when making my rustic furniture and it produces a self-induced clamp and a strong fit.
I can't think of a reason why these tenon cutters wouldn't also make an enormously strong joint for a cane. The cutters fit into my high torque drill and they all have a built-in leveling bubble which ensures that everything is lined up good.
Thanks again everyone and please let me know if you have any questions or suggestions. I know that I need to work on spending more time carving and trying not to write a book on this forum!
