Walnut carving

[leokline]

I am carving walnut reliefs. I want a surface which is perfectly smooth in order to show off the grain. I am frustrated when I have a smooth area 90 % finished and I expose the end of a grain. It shows up as a jagged end and if I use a tool to scoop under it, a splinter results and that's the end to the smooth surface. If I sand further an end is still exposed-its just moved in location. I have tried putting a drop of super glue on the end of the grain but this shows up in the finished piece.I have tried rubbing a filler into the end of the grain, but this then requires painting or staining and that destroys the concept of a clear finish showing up the grain. Can anyone help in solving this problem?

[ragiarn]

In my limited experience I have found that when this happens it is best to 3 things. #1 sharpen your tool # 2change the direction in which you are carving, #3 make very small light strokes- just barely touching the surface.

[leokline]

I agree with all three suggestions-however when I have done all three there will frequently be a tiny jagged end showing some where on the piece. Fine sanding seems like it is equivalent to very light tool strokes but this only moves the exposed end. If the exposed end is the end of thick splinter, then the exposed end will just become more prominent

[ragiarn]

Perhaps you can take a close up photo of the problem and someone might be in a better position to help. Depending on how the wood was oriented and carving done some end grain is inevitable. The key is keep the end grain smooth. A very sharp gouge will usually accomplish this.

[northwood bob]

In my stock work I've found that if you want that perfectly smooth surface for finish on Walnut, you will need to "Whisker" the surface. (1) Get the surface as smooth as you can with either your carving tools or light sand paper. (2) Wet the surface with water which will allow the cut grains to "stand up". (3) Re-sand the surface being careful to only cut off the grain ends - not to sand the base wood. After about three attempts of doing this, you will find that the grain ends no longer stand up after watering. This appears to be a trait of Walnut. Not having an idea of what you are working on, I would assume this will work. It has worked for me not only on gun-stocks but on several boxed and carvings.

Good Luck
Bob

[leokline]

In response to Doc's suggestiion-here are two pics. The first showsthe geese I'm working on. The next shows a closeup of the trailing edge of the front wing which has at least 8 end grains exposed although they are kind of hard to see after filing and sanding. To the right of that trailing edge is the back wing of the front goose and its clear here that there are several end grains exposed. The front wing also shows the deep grooves which are produced by trying to scoop out the imperfections, resulting in a ruined piece since I wanted the wings to be perfectly flat and smooth

[northwood bob]

This really looks like your tools are not sharp enough. They appear to be tearing the wood. Try Doc's advice on sharpening. The method I suggested works really well on sanded surfaces.

Bob

[ragiarn]

I agree with Bob- from the photos it is clear that your tools are not sharp enough. I relatively new at carving and beginning to learn the art of sharpening tools. I learned that when the wood begins to tear even the slightest the tool is no longer sharp and it is time to use the strop.

My favorite tool has become a #2 or #3 gouge and I have several of different widths and length. Before I start carving I strop all of them - as I carve if one becomes a little dull I swap it for another until I have used them all - then it time to strop all of them again.