Tung Oil

groozier · #1 02-27-2004, 10:03 PM

My Formbys Tung Oil has turned into a jelly. Is there anything that can be done to restore it to liquid form?(adding anything) I put some on a piece the other day and it seems to be working ok, but it is hard to get it on the cloth to rub it into the carving.Any and all opinions will be appreciated.
Thanks,
groozier

Gergie · #2 02-28-2004, 12:15 AM

Hi, I just threw mine away when it happened to me. I left the cap off and it got 'waxie'. I was afraid it would leave a dull looking finish. When I buy those plastic pint bottles of frombeys it says to squeeze the tung oil to the top and cap it to keep air out of it. Sorry I couldn't answer your question. But I'd be leery of using it. Good Luck Gergie,

#3 02-28-2004, 12:16 AM

Almost all tung oil finishes are 1/3rd boiled linseed oil, 1/3rd thinner, and 1/3rd varnish. If you have a tung oil finish, or danish oil finish, that is probably what you have. Most finishes have zero tung oil in them. You can buy pure tung oil, but it takes quite a long time to cure.

Varnishes and finishes don't have a 'forever' shelf life. If it has started to gel, I wouldn't trust it even if I thinned it. I wouldn't want to damage a nice piece on old finish.

Good luck
Ken in So Cal

#4 02-28-2004, 09:05 AM

I have never worked with this stuff, but wanted to know a little more about it, so I posted the question over at Wood Magazine's 'finishig section'. Here's the answer I got (more may be coming) from Howard Atchison. Pretty much agrees with what Ken had to say.

Al

'Are you referring to a real, 100%, pure tung oil or one of the so called 'Tung Oil Finishes'?

True tung oil rarely gells up. It would take years for it to happen.

Tung Oil Finishes are mixtures of drying oils (generally linseed oil) and varnish or resins. They products do have a shelf life and, like any varnish, when they gell, they have partially cured. When partially cured, the process can not be effectively reversed. Thinners in oil based products are not solvents to cured or partially cured finishes.

That said, I can highly recommend that any finish that has gotton to the 'gel' stage should be discarded. Why even consider saving it? Finish is one of the least cost items in the process and it's the finish that gets the ooh's and aah's. '

groozier · #5 02-28-2004, 11:12 AM

Thanks to all who replied.I didn't think there would be anything to do to reverse it, but since I had never heard the question asked before I thought I would ask. I agree that it is not worth ruining a carving because of 7-8 dollars worth of finish. From reading the replies I have learned that there is actually very little tung oil in Formbys tung oil finish. Thanks, again, so much for your replies.This is the place to come if you have questions about anything pertaining to carving. I'll swing by Wallyworld today or tomorrow and pick up a new can.
groozier

#6 03-02-2004, 11:46 PM

Air and tung oil are not a good combination. As you use up the container with the tung oil, put marbles into it to take up the space and eliminate the air. This will prevent your oil from degrading as quickly.

Tony

Callynne · #7 03-03-2004, 07:06 AM

Thanks for the tip about using marbles, Tony, that's a really good one. I've used Formbys for years and never had much of a problem with the plastic bottles, just squeezed the air out while I was closing it up. The last couple metal cans have jelled up really quickly, looks like I'll be picking up some marbles when I get a new can. Callynne

Kenny_S · #8 03-03-2004, 09:16 AM

That is where I can put the marbles my little bride says I have lost!

:

Texas_Jim · #9 03-04-2004, 07:33 PM

I have only used Forby's tung oil. What is the best brand in your opinion?

#10 03-05-2004, 07:37 AM

I've never used Formby's but from what I understand it is not a true tung oil, but a wiping varnish which may have a small amount of tung oil added. It is designed to simulate a tung oil finish. I've had good luck with straight boiled linseed oil, as a renewable finish on walking sticks, as it can be repaided by simply wiping on another layer and letting it dry.
Particular brand shouldn't make a difference.

A drawback is slow curing time, and what some would call an offensive odor, although I don't consider it that bad. Kinda smells like popcorn popping.

As far as finishes go I 've had good results with Minwax, Ace store brand, Tru-Valu store brand, and several others. Most major brands seem to be quite well manufactured and provide good results. Personally I like the Minwax brand......been able to thin it down as a wiping varnish or use it straight from the can. Haven't tried adding oils of any kind to it, but years back did add Japan drier and that sped up the drying and limited drips.

Al