I was finishing my son's antique steamer trunk this morning with several coats of paste wax. Realizing that I did not follow the directions on the can at all I thought I would pass on how my Dad taught me waxing.
I don't use steel wool for the application as it too often leaves behind fine wire that takes me forever to chase down. Nor do I use a cloth as they never seem to get wax into the deep detailing or corner areas.
Instead I use one of those very inexpensive 3" bristle brushes that you can get at any hardware store. The brush is soft enough not to scratch the surface and pliable enough to stuff wax into any corner. You can cut the handle off near the ferrule so that the brush can be easily stored inside the paste wax can ... that is after you have used up some of the wax.
After buffing the wax to a glossy shean I use an old tooth brush for polishing the very deep corners and crevises. I also have an old shoe polishing brush in the waxing kit ... but usually it's a little too large.
You can get some Great! lint free rags at
www.sandingcatalog.com that are inexpensive and truely lint free.
Once all the waxing is done everything gets washed in Dawn dish washing detergent. It removes all the wax residue.
Perhaps you are way ahead of me and you have been doing this for years ... but I thought I might share it this morning in hopes of making someone else's waxing job go easier.
Maybe if you have a Tip or Trick you might share it here.
Susan
OH! One more trick. Go to your local hobby ceramic shop and purchase about three or four kiln stilts. These are made of ceramic bisque usually in a triangluar shape. Out of each triangle leg is a sharply pointed wire stem. When you are either oiling or waxing (and even painting) you don't want to set the wood carving down on your work bench or on newspaper as they can get stuck! Instead, do your oil or waxing then place the wood on the kiln stilt. The stilt holds the wood by the three wire points allowing air to flow under the carving for even drying.