[nameless]

Hi all,
Does anyone know of any magic 'tricks' for carving 'parallel' tapered flutes down a tapered round stick? Or is it just grunt along with the gauges?
Thanks

[bbeery]

Originally Posted by nameless

Hi all,
Does anyone know of any magic 'tricks' for carving 'parallel' tapered flutes down a tapered round stick? Or is it just grunt along with the gauges?
Thanks

Unless you can power carve, I guess you just "grunt" along with the gouges.

[susieq]

Nameless,
do you have graduating sized deep "U" gouges? Or maybe you could mark the tapered fluting with a pencil, then make a stop cut down through the center of each area to be fluted, kind of like a chip carving, cut the center line then take out each side of it by making an angle cut on each side back toward the stop cut, then round the depression and the ridges in between the flutes......... or use a good "V" tool to go down the center, going shallow to start, then deeper as the fluted area widens, then work it from there with various U gouges and and what ever other tool might fit the need...sorry for the rambling, I am just thinking out loud here....

Power carving fluted designs is much simpler than using gouges just because of the sheer number of various bits which happen to be a lot cheaper than gouges so you can own a lot more of them. I am sure there will be other good suggestions here.
susieq

[chuckt]

I find that the flute bodys aren't so difficult, but the valve controls where the flautist puts their fingers are very tricky. <grin>

Sorry - couldn't resist! Feeling mischevious today.
ChuckT

[mark yundt]

If you have just one,,carve it,,if you have several,,I'd take the time to make a jig and do it with a router,,.Yes ,,it's not carving but once you have the jig you can knock them out pretty fast with just the right size round nose bit and have perfect repeatablility.Size also can make them tricky,,if they're long and thin that's one thing,,if they're fatter,,makes it alot easier.So it might depend on how many and what size to some extent.

[nameless]

Originally Posted by susieq

Nameless,
do you have graduating sized deep "U" gouges? Or maybe you could mark the tapered fluting with a pencil, then make a stop cut down through the center of each area to be fluted, kind of like a chip carving, cut the center line then take out each side of it by making an angle cut on each side back toward the stop cut, then round the depression and the ridges in between the flutes......... or use a good "V" tool to go down the center, going shallow to start, then deeper as the fluted area widens, then work it from there with various U gouges and and what ever other tool might fit the need...sorry for the rambling, I am just thinking out loud here....

Power carving fluted designs is much simpler than using gouges just because of the sheer number of various bits which happen to be a lot cheaper than gouges so you can own a lot more of them. I am sure there will be other good suggestions here.
susieq

Thanx, susieq. Yeah, there seem to be little shortcuts(!?!) in the 'grunt' method.
One of these days I'll have to get a power carver. The joints are getting as old as the rest of me! Hahahhaa...

Query; Power carving, is that like rotating bits, like in a Dremel, or an 'in and out' motion, like carving with a mallet..?
Thanx again..

[nameless]

Originally Posted by chuckt

I find that the flute bodys aren't so difficult, but the valve controls where the flautist puts their fingers are very tricky. <grin>

Sorry - couldn't resist! Feeling mischevious today.
ChuckT

Thanx, Chuck, you're a pip! *__-

[nameless]

Originally Posted by mark yundt

If you have just one,,carve it,,if you have several,,I'd take the time to make a jig and do it with a router,,.Yes ,,it's not carving but once you have the jig you can knock them out pretty fast with just the right size round nose bit and have perfect repeatablility.Size also can make them tricky,,if they're long and thin that's one thing,,if they're fatter,,makes it alot easier.So it might depend on how many and what size to some extent.

Tapered oval (cross-section) walking cane. Long narrow and elegant.
That would have to be one finely tuned 'jig' for the router. Good idea, though.. I'll have to think about it.

As far as I am concerned, I can 'carve' with a router and jig, chainsaw, beaver teeth, drill press, whatever the tool, it is guided by my 'intent' to manifest my 'desires'.
Peace...

[susieq]

Hi Namless,
Power carving is all of the things you mentioned.... you can use bits and rotary tools such as Dremel& Foredom Flex shafts, and any one of the various micro motors that are great detail carvers....or any of the "reciprocating" (in and out motion) hand pieces that you can buy little gouge ends for.

I started with the Dremel flex shaft. It is a nice starter unit that does both roughing and detailing. It is variable speed and the higher speeds are good for fine work.

If you decide that power carving is for you, then you can invest a larger chunk of change in one of the heavy duty flex shaft units like a Foredom.

Finally, if you really like power carving, you invest in a micro motor to do your fine detailing with...main advantage over the Dremel....no shaft to kink or worry about, total freedom of movement while working, as the motor is in the handpiece itself. But you can't use micro motors for roughing or put any pressure to speak of, on them or you will burn them up. Micro motors start at around $300 to $400 and go up in price from there.

and then you will be accused of "going to the dark side".....
susieq

[nameless]

Originally Posted by susieq

...If you decide that power carving is for you, then you can invest a larger chunk of change in one of the heavy duty flex shaft units like a Foredom.

Yeah, I have been lugging the same Foredom tool around for about thirty years! The shaft needs replacing, I guess, but all in all, a great tool for small details! I seem to always end up with blade in hand for the 'perfecting' of the cuts..

Finally, if you really like power carving,...

Funny, I can't really say whether I like carving at all, with anything (tools). I've been a bladesmith for decades and am partial to the blade, but spinning blades, whirling blades, reciprocating blades, armstrong blades, whatever gets the job done! I 'like' it if it gets the job done in a faster, more efficient manner.
I DO 'like' the end products though!

you invest in a micro motor to do your fine detailing with...main advantage over the Dremel....no shaft to kink or worry about, total freedom of movement while working, as the motor is in the handpiece itself.

WOW! So the motor is so small and powerful that the handpiece is no more clumsy than the Foredom basic?? Is it comparable? Not as much torque I'd guess, so faster speed but slower working?
I think that I'll just have to try a few when I can and see for myself.

Micro motors start at around $300 to $400 and go up in price from there.

Sigh... (thank 'dog' for barter! *__- )

and then you will be accused of "going to the dark side".....
susieq

Oh yeah, like that'll be the first time! Hahahaha...
Thanx, Susie, for the input.
Peace