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General Wood Carving | |||
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#1
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I am beginning to carve complete heads from 7" to 12" diameter log cutoffs, primarily cherry and soft maple. The cutting is great but they end up with major splits! Is there any way to stabilize the blanks? Radar |
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#2
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Try sealing the ends with parafin wax or "anchor seal"
__________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/daviddunlap |
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#3
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Generaly speaking, Radar, the answer is NO! If you carve directly from logs,they will split......sooner or later, they WILL split. ' There are chemical treatments that are supposed to stabilize the shrikage (Pentacryl, polyethylene glycol P.E.G., etc) but they are fairly expensive and it sounds like you need to saturate the entire log with the stuff for it to be effective. I haven't used it myself, but have talked with some folks around our area who have.....it worked for a while, but eventually....CRAAAAAACK! An afterthought....that PEG is not the same as ethylene glycol antifreeze, which is highly toxic.....wouldn't recomend trying that for a wood treatment. Dave is right about sealing the ends, though. For some smaller diameter samples this works quite well. I have some large 18" diameter logs that I've sealed heavilly with paraffin. They took about 2 years to crack, but they did. You can fill the cracks that develop with various commercial fillers, make your own from sawdust from your own piece of wood and carpenters' glue, or cut wedges from a similar piece of wood and glue them into the cracks, then carve the wedges down to match your carving's contours. Maybe someone has done some research into how large a log or branch can be succesfully sealed to prevent cracking. that would be an interesting piece of info to have available! I suppose a lot would depend on the species, too. Al |
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#4
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Thanks, guys! I'll try the parafin. Maybe I'll let the cracks start, and the have my major detail areas elsewhere! If and when I learn to navigate this forum and host site, I'll post some pictures (is that possible?) Radar |
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#5
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go into the "carver galleries" on the left side of the page....you can post pics there
__________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/daviddunlap |
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#6
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Some Folks hollow a log out or remove the heart wood and have good success. King Arthur Tools has a beautiful "solid" chair in their showroom that was hollowed from below, carved green, and no cracking. Al might be right, they all may crack in time, but I hope not! ![]() Wade |
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#7
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Large chunks of wood, unless very carefully seasoned, are going to split. Try partially hollowing - at least to remove most of the heartwood, then remove the bark. Soak the entire thing in linseed oil, allow to soak in, then cover in plastic and leave where it will be cool and dry - a garage, perhaps? - for a year or longer, depending on species. Even then, chances are, the wood will crack. |
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#8
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I wish logs did not split but they just do. The safest way to go is to simply glue up previously dried boards to the size you need. Pay attention to the grain patterns. Make sure the grain patterns run in the same direction. Look at the end of the wood and keep the growth rings going the same direction. Keep the larger growth rings to the outside and the smaller ones to the inside. 2X6X12 & 3x6x14 blanks can make a fairly large block quickly. If they are glued up under pressure of a wood clamp they will no separate or crack.
__________________ I crave freedom and I carve to be free |
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#9
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__________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/daviddunlap |
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#10
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I had a log of birdseye maple several years ago. I painted the ends and when it started to split, I set it in the lake in front of the house for several months. It sealed back up and I slowly removed it by wraping it in a wet cloth for several more months. It made a beautiful bowl, with no cracks, that sits on my dining room table.
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