Some of these V tools!!!%%**

[woodenleg]

I used to see V tools that had two edges joined in a point and I figured out how to sharpen them.

Now I am seeing more and more of the V tools that have a slight curve where the two slabs join and I can't figure out how to sharpen those things to save my life. Any hints?

There's probably other ways, but I look at them as three tools; two skew chisels and a veiner. First I sharpen the two chisels, then do the veiner.

I call Rick Ferry and say 'send me another V tool' :-)
(or I drop in to bother him and he takes pity and sharpens it)

Teri

Woody,
Most V-tools (other than Japanese) have some radius inside the V. Â*Ed explained the 'theory' behind sharpening a V-tool pretty well; but it is rarely that simple.

There are also many 'defects' in tools that throw a wrench into the process; not to mention over-buffing or honing the inside of the V, which can produce more problems.

I will try to outline my sharpening method; although it may not help much.

First I check how the V-tool cuts, if it doesn't require resharpening, I simply strop it well to bring the edge back.

If it needs sharpening, I (usually) grind off the cutting edge until it is even and perpendicular to the tools shank.

Then I strop or buff to remove any burr I made when grinding.

Once that is done, I jab the tool into a flat piece of basswood to clean and clairify the profile of the end of the tool.

Up to this point, I am simply preparing to sharpen the tool.

Under good light and magnification, I hone one side at the proper angle Â*to bring the edge even and close but not finished. Â*Turn the tool over and repeat for the other side.

Then I buff or strop to remove any burrs and again jab it into the basswood to clean and clarify the edge.

I then bring each side to a fine edge; making sure I don't go beyond the original squared off end.

Once that is done, I jab it into the basswood again and check it under magnification. If it looks good, I carefully finish the bottom radius to match the inside profile.

You guessed it, jab the wood a couple times and strop it.
Test it on a piece of basswood (across the grain) ; check how each side cuts and make a deep V cut and check the finish in the bottom of the cut under magnification (it should be fairly smooth).

If any part of the tool needs more work, first try stroping then light honing if necessary.

When that is done and I am satisfied with the cut, I check the bottom of the tool for extra metal that will limit the tool path or cause resistance; and remove it. Â*

A little light buffing and wa-la you're done. Â*

[woodenleg]

Thanks to all for your response.

Rick, your explanation enables me to focus in on my problem:

'When that is done and I am satisfied with the cut, I check the bottom of the tool for extra metal that will limit the tool path or cause resistance; and remove it.'

That is the part I am having the biggest problem with. Can you elaborate a bit? Thanks.

I'll try.

Turn the V-tool 1/4 turn so the bottom of the tool is away from you and the edge is to your left.

Under magnification look at the profile of the bottom of the tool. Often there is an obvious hump a short distance from the edge; this can be rounded off to reduce the resistance.

A word of caution, don't remove too much or you will weaken the V to the point it may split during use.

[woodenleg]

Good try. I'll see what happens. Thnx very much.

Flexcut makes a sharpening tool thats made of wood, that is set up with the shape of the v tool, you just put sharpening compound in the groove and strop it

You could do the same thing your self and save you some money. I did it for my small gouges and it works good. 8)