[Colin_Partridge]

Hi gang,
Well I have stepped out of my comfort zone and I have done a few santa's, caricatures, etc and now I am finally going to paint them. My question to all of you before I start is how should I prepare the wood before painting. Some of it is cedar and some of it is bass wood. I did carve one a little while ago but it looks a little washed out. I would love to get the look some of you get on your Santa's so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Colin

[oldbearx2]

Hey Colin I would guess everyone has their own style of painting maybe just like their own style of carving. I cant speak for the cedar because I've never painted on it. But for basswood I paint directly on the wood. I used to seal the wood before with a mix of 50% deft and 50% laquer thinner. But I found that the paint would sometimes rub off even if I sealed it. I have never been able to find a top sealer that doesn't give it a shiny look which I didn't like. Before I paint I sand the carving very lightly with 200 grit sandpaper and then with a white scotch brite pad and then with a piece of brown paper bag. This isn't to remove a lot of wood just seems to cut down on the grain raising somewhat. After I'm done painting and it's dry I then seal it with boiled linseed oil with a dab of burnt umber oil paint in it. The santa bust on my picturetrail site was done this way. Hope this helps some. have fun, carve oldbearx2

Harold

[Callynne]

Harold was right, everyone is going to have their own method or style of painting. Mine is quite simple, carve the piece, sand, paint, antique and seal it with a semi-gloss sealer. Sometimes I seal it with a matt sealer first (after painting), if I don't want the antiquing to settle in to the color too much. For instance, the Santa holding the Nativity Blanket in my 2004 Santa Album. I knew if I didn't seal it before antiquing it would cover the painting too much and I'd have to repaint it. Been there, done that....not a fun experience.
I haven't had any success with washes of color, I absolutely love the look but it just doesn't seem to work for my pieces! >
As for what brands, I tried ordering more expensive paints, in tubes, honestly didn't see any big difference from the ones I get at Wal-Mart or JoAnn Fabrics. In fact, some of the more expensive ones took lots more coats to get the coverage I wanted! And yes, I did try the expensive paints for washes, just didn't look right to me....now Teri's washes....there are washes that look fantastic!!
Anyhow, that's how I do mine Colin, I'll look forward to other responses, good luck! We'll be anxiously waiting to see some pictures! Callynne


P.S. Harold, if you lightly rub your carving down with 0000 steel wool after the sealer has dried it will cut down some on the shine. Just use a very light touch!

[Nancy_G]

Again - Ditto Callynne's message.
Except I don't use steel wool or a final sealer. I do my final coat - after acrylic painting - as the antiquing glaze with a mix of Winsor & Newton's Liquin and a tiny dab of burnt umber oil paint.
Some day - lol - I'll learn Teri Embrey's and Al Longo's method of washes.

[Colin_Partridge]

Thanks a million I am now painting the pieces using your advice. I do have a question though, Whats antiquing it consist of. The semi gloss sealer can that be any sealer or should I get that at the craft store as well.
Just one more question ladies, maybe I shouldnt have used the dining room table for painting, how do you get paint out of her expensive tablecloth? :-[ :-/ >
Colin

[mikeg]

Scissors should get the paint out of the table cloth!!

mikeg

[Kenny_S]

Colin, As Callyne and Nancy have posted, sometimes the simplest way is the best way. HUH??? I use the KISS theory!! Keep It Simple Stupid. Nah wasn't calling you that but sometimes I do do the stupidest things.

I am not one of the ladies but I like a couple of coats of Deff Semi Goss to seal the finished project. However, I have found I have either got a bad can of it or the bark has changed or has had a chemical reaction to the Deft. I sprayed 2 coats(drying in between and sanding down with Brown paper sack), and it turned milky. I used the Scotch Brite Pads in my rotory equipment and buffed it down and it(the milky appearence) came out semi shinny. Waiting to see if I have to buff some more. I doubt that the coats are heavy as for being the problem and the can was shooked enought to mic. I have done 10 bark carvings this way and this is the first time this has happen and it is a new can.

Wow, I started this to be a short post but as usual, I have made it long winded. HMMM, maybe the little bride is right. :

Anyways I use Deft Semi gloss and Satin. Heard some have used Kryon spray Poly,Watco, Boiled linseed. Guess there are as many ways as there are carvers.

Best to you

Table cloth,.......What table cloth??? ....he says innocently.

Colin,

My method is to wash the carving with soap and water...brushing with a nylon brush to remove any dirt and hand oils that may have gotten on the carving. I towel dry and then paint before the wood has a chance to dry completely. I do not sand.

I use paints that have been diluted with water and have a tendancy to run....the wet wood helps reduce this.

I have not painted cedar recently, so I don't know how this will work. I think it is more closed grain than bass, go paints will not penetrate as much.

I think finishing will help with keeping the paints on the carvings. I dip mine in a can of acrylic polymer (Satin) - this helps keep the carving clean and prevents the paints from being rubbed off so easily. Being a satin, it does not shine too much. The spray finish does NOT work very well. You can't get enough coverage to be effective.

I do it the same way as Mitchell.Stick it under the Faucet and paint .