scotchbright

[dick]

I have used S/Brite (worked for 40 years at 3M) but not to succesfully, the fzzies seem to come where the grain changes? Maybe I am wrong but that's my experience I will try the brown paper

[Eddy-Smiles]

Well, they say that experience is the best teacher! It sounds as if I'm not the only one that started out using green and switched to gray and white. What gets me is that I've even found green buffs made or at least sold by Dremel. In fact, I think I still have a couple in my tool box that I haven't used for fear of staining another carving. Someone at Dremel needs to subscribe to this forum!

[Spooker]

You can also find good pads at any welding supply store. They are used to take the coating and impurities of T.I.G. wire. I've used it for many purposes and never had any color bleeding effects. Howere I've never used it on wood.

Spooker

[Dull Knife]

Originally Posted by herbd

Hi,

In one of Jeff Phares' he talks about using scotchbright to go over his entire carving to get the "fuzzies" out and some tool marks. I've tried this and it works, however it also stains the wood green.

do any of you have experience with this?

I use the scotch bright after I apply the finish coat, to get rid of the hickies.

[Doc Hamm]

If memory serves me, Scotch-Brite pads were created for auto body work. Here is a website that explains the differences and prices are reasonable. My Every Day Auto

[dick]

I have used the brown it's an industrial S/Brite and works pretty good so the fault is more me, I have to do a better job cutting. I worked for 3M forty years and was around when S/Brite was created......