Re: Sanding sealer I don't seal anything before I burn it, but I do verry little burning.
Regarding the sealers;
Shellac is good for sealing softwood (pine, cedar, spruce, etc. with knots and high pitch content. It will generally prevent the pitch from bleeding through. Real shellac is made from ground up and powdered beetle exoskeletal parts, and can cause severe allergic reactions. I know cuz I get em. I try to limit my use of shellac because of this, but sometimes it is the best answer.
Lacquer can be used as a sealer, and if you are going to finish with lacquer, it is a good idea to use a lacquer based sealer, or test the one you are going to use. Most lacquers are highly reactive due to the solvent used, and may blister some other sealers. It's a good idea to test these before applying them to a 'real' project.
When using lacquer for a sealer I either use the spray stuff or thin the liquid about 10%-20% that lets it penetrate a little better.
You can also cut your varnish 10%-20% and use that as a sealer, in a pinch, but dry time is longer with that.
There are several types of dedicated sanding sealers available. Two of the most commom are petro-based and water based. Water based has the obvious advantage of easy cleanup. I have had problems with it turning milky when applied so I don't use it often.
For the petro based, I use Cabot and Behr. They seem to work very well, but need solvent for cleanup. These dry quickly and seem to take even lacquer finishes well, if left to cure for a couple days. also use good ventilation when using these.
I'm sure there are other brands that work just as well, but these are what is available in our area, so that's what I use.
Hope this helps.
Al |