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#1
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Can anyone advise me on the advantages vs. disadvantages between a Micro-Motor and a flexshaft for power carving i.e. if you were going to buy one or the other, which one would it be? I'm leaning toward the Micro-motor because it would seem to me the flexshaft is bulkier
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#2
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I use my micromotor a LOT more than I do my Foredom (flex shaft). That being said, if I had to purchase only one, I would go for the flex shaft. It is bulkier, requires a little maintenance, and would not be as easy and convenient to use. But, it will do everything the micromotor does, plus............ With the flex shaft, I would get a large handpiece that will handle 1/4" shank bits and a smaller one, that will handle all of the small shank bits, for doing the detail work. This way you can hog off wood and carve in the fine features with the same tool. The micromotor, with the right bits, would probably do about the same thing; but, I would hate to have to go this route. Now, if you prefer to hog off the wood by hand and then move to power, I would recommend the micromotor tool. It is just a lot easier to use when you get down to detailing and requires virtually no maintenance. I am not aware of any particular brand that I have heard bad things about. Nor, have I heard of one that is so superior that I would recommend it above some others. Same thing as far as the flex shaft is concerned, the main thing I would look for with this tool is to make sure it has a foot control to vary the speed. Other than relief, I don't think I have ever finished a carving without using one of my power tools. On the flip side, I do't think I have ever finished a carving without using one of my hand tools. |
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#3
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Thanks Paul. You were a big help to me when I bought my Automach Reciprocating Power carving tool a few months ago. It really is great! I have a dremel flex shaft that I use occationally and don't have any burrs bigger then 1/8" (some3/32") so I may got with the micro motor. Can't see I'd ever need anything as big as 1/4". I do use some 1/8" Kutzall Burrs that buzz wood up fairly fast. I'm in Georgia during the winter and Michigan in the summer. I've been carving about 4 years but don't spend as much time at it as I'd like to. Retired this year from the University of Georgia after 42 years; maybe when the "Honey due" list gets caught up, I"ll find more time...but that is doubtful as the list seems to get longer rather then shorter. |
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#4
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I am glad I read this thread. Paul you say that maintenence has to be done on the flexshaft. Whoops! I have a Fordum with a flex shaft I didnt know you had to do any maintenace on it. What type of maintenence does it require? Sorry I am ignorant about power carving I purchased one second hand but it came with no instructions so any advise as to oiling or greasing would be much appreciated before I sieze this thing up. ColinRed Face
__________________ Great minds speak about idea's. Small minds speak about people. http://woodspiritcarver.netfirms.com |
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#5
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Colin, the following link will get you to an Operating Tips sheet from Foredom. It talks about tool maintenance requirements. http://www.blackstoneind.com/foundat...ratingTips.pdf
__________________ Tucson Bill Maker of Fine Firewood and Kustom Kindling |
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#6
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Colin, that's a good reference site that Tucson Bill posted. Basically, all you have to worry about is the shaft. Certainly check the brushes now and then (I still have the same ones that came with my Foredom in 1980). I am still using the same flex shaft (bought a new one and a spare about 10 years ago when I thought mine was going). It wasn't so still have the original and two new ones. My maintenance schedule is annual only (probably not what is recommended, but it has worked for over 25 years). Before attending the annual spring seminar, I remove the flex shaft, rub it down with some mineral spirits, apply another coat of grease, wipe the grease off with a rag (too much will make it overheat real fast.....I learned the hard way), then re-install the shaft on the motor. That is it! I didn't count hours before I read the directions (went about 5 years before the first maintenance). After the first maintenance, I decided that annual was a lot better than every five years. Besides, I wanted a Foredom with reverse and was not too concerned if mine gave up and died. After a few years, I no longer wanted the reverse (hardly ever use it on the micromotor); but, heck, annual maintenance was working so I just kept it going. I guess Foredoms are made to withstand abuse. Bbeery, I do a lot of large carvings and use the 1/4" shank to get rid of excess wood and get down to the carving level. Then switch to the smaller handpiece (with small shanks) and keep typhoon bits in it to get into the narrower places. I spent an assignment at Kennesaw Mountain early in my Park Service career. Are you staying near the University or somewhere else in GA? Been retired 11 years and still working on shortening the honey-do list! |
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#7
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I was going to answer this but Paul has stolen my thunder. He said everything right.I will say that I would not be without BOTH the Foredom ( or some other brand of flexshaft) and the micromotor.
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#8
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What size pieces will you most likely be carving ? That might make the most difference initially. I believe they are both equally useful, but I probably wouldn't tackle a large piece with my Emax, and even with a 3/32 handpiece a Foredom can be wearisome for high detail. Depending on those tasks you "Enjoy" doing by hand you may realize a greater necessity for one or the other. I'll admit I AM Very impressed with the overall flexibility of the Foredom SR, but never the less I'm afraid they'll have to pry my Emax from my cold dead fingers ! Jester Honestly ? I think I actually use my GRS 850 More. This is confusing. While I can't say that any one brand is better than another I'm forced to admit the PJL Ultima 2 turned out to be an excellent value overall, and the combination of a high quality micro motor, and an extremely accurate burning pen do work together very fluidly in one neat unit. A very nice detail package ! I might suggest upgrading to the 45,000 rpm motor if you get the opportunity. The Emax, GRS and SCM units are outstanding, but The simple little ultima unit will go head to head with any of them for a fraction of the price, and the wood burner has an incredibly articulate temperature control. For flex shaft units Foredom may very well be the best, and I know Flexcut just released the new SKX300 RPC handpiece to go with the SR series motors. Last edited by dutchmanmk3; 04-06-2006 at 02:31 PM. Reason: Just augmenting the original post |
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#9
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Dutchman, I am not familiar with Emax or GRS 850; but have used an Optima 2 Plus (Ultima without the burner) since about 1995. I purchased this micromotor for several reasons: 1. An instructor had been using them in his classes and they were holding up well. 2. The price was well under the average for the micromotors that were available at that time. 3. I like the shape of the handpiece which fit my hand better than the others. A couple of years ago I had a problem with the handpiece. Called PJL and ended up ordering a new handpiece for my old control box. They also repaired my old handpiece and sent it back to me for only a remarkably small price. Can't say enough about the service I received from this Company, they are great. I am still using the original handpiece even though it: 1. Requires a couple of tools to change the collet. 2. Will burn the he....heck out of your fingers if you get them down near the tip. The cap that holds the collet spins with the bit. I do not like the new handpiece. I do have to admit that changing the collet and the safety aspect of no burned fingers is great. It is fast to change the bits; but they fit tight and some of the same shank sizes are either impossible or hard to get in that thing. Also it only takes one shank size. Given these problems, I stopped recommending the Optima. |
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#10
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Bummer ! They were such a great value. How disappointing... I hate getting on to a good product only to have someone "Improve" It. Head Bange The Emax, and GRS Ultra 850 are both available through Bill Janney or GRS Glendo corporation. Wonderful line of professional carving and engraving equipment, but they aren't inexpensive. (Sorry Paul, I'd forgotten both of these units are actually produced by NSK) I'd purchased mine through GRS and had come to associate the two. Even the NSK can be pretty involved when it comes to maintenance. The Optima was a walk in the park by comparison. I also have a Doiron power checkering tool this is also basically an NSK electer micro motor with a modified right angle cutter. I just wouldn't suggest someone initially invest in that grade of equipment as a hobbiest especially when the Value offered in some of the other units is really very good comparatively. The NSK Electer does have a very precise level of control, but I can't say that it's absolutely necessary. Come to think of it I have the extended tapered handpiece on my Ultima. I always wondered about that ? Last edited by dutchmanmk3; 04-07-2006 at 03:01 AM. |
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