Polyurethane storage.

Bandaid · #1 08-23-2003, 10:43 AM

I use a water based polyurethane as a finish for a lot of my projects and find that after a while I get a lot of 'guck', rust and the like, forming around the lid of the container. My thought is to transfer the stuff into a glass jar e.g. those used for canning.
The brand I'm using at present is Behr and was wondering if others in the group have experienced the same problem, possibly with a different brand.
Any comments or suggestions would be much appreciated...Reg.

AlArchie · #2 08-24-2003, 01:30 PM

I quit using water based poly for that and a couple other reasons. Just don't lke the stuff!

Al

Bandaid · #3 08-25-2003, 08:20 AM

Thx. for the input Al...I guess my main reason for using it is the ease of cleanup. I'm curious about your other reasons for not using it, were you not happy with the end results?...Reg.

AlArchie · #4 08-25-2003, 08:41 AM

OK, storage was one reason, as you have found. Two others were that it seemed to leave brush marks (Behr brand, and the Ace Hardware brand), that needed to be sanded over to get out prior to applying the varnish, and then it seemed to go milky on me after applying. I've had some poly varnishes milk up on application, but they have always cleared up after curing. The Behr's wb sealer stayed milky. They also seem to just lay on the surface, and not penetrate the wood.

I've been using Cabot sealer; I like the way it soaks into the wood, immediately, and then seems to harden and bind the surface fibers. The water based ones seemed to just lay on the surface as a coating OVER the wood, rather than leaving the surface as I have carved it.

These quirks may be due to humidity, or perhaps I should have thinned down the sealer with water, or maybe it's more temperature sensitive than the petro-based sealers.

I have talked with other carvers and woodworkers who use the waterbased sealers and like it, but it could be that I'm just used to the Cabot, and Minwax sealers. I like the fact that they leave the surface still feeling like wood, but the fibers are reinforced. Particularly on oak, like in picture frames, the Cabot seems to be able to fill the open grain (with several coats) and still leave the 'wood-feel' without going 'plastic'.

I've tried several brands, and have wound up throwing them all away, only one after finding it rusted the can. The rest were trashed because of the other problems. Could be just me and I haven't tried the WB stuff for a couple years now, so maybe it's gotten better.

Al

Bandaid · #5 08-25-2003, 09:13 AM

Thx. for the reply Al...As a rule I don't use the wb poly on any detailed carvings, I've used it mainly on woodspirits, walking sticks and the like. As you said the stuff does seem to just sit on the surface and not soak in which, I agree, is probably not a good thing.
Maybe it's time to do a little experimenting with an alternative! Thx. again for your thoughts...Reg.

#6 08-26-2003, 07:49 AM

Try punching holes around the birm of the can where the lid fits. This lets the liquid drip back into the can.

works on house paints.

Bandaid · #7 08-26-2003, 09:44 AM

Thx for the tip Fingers but the rust develops from within the container. The water in the poly and the metal lid just don't get along. I don't understand why they can't sell the stuff in plastic bottles.
By the way, let us know how you make out coating flowers with glue etc. I'm wondering how it would work with leaves.