[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

Well a while back I bought the 'Oar Carver' folding pocketknife and the 'Carvin' Jack' folder by flexcut....I like the flexcut a lot, haven't used it yet, saving it for RV trips etc. Did find out that with 3 tools on each end, when you pull out a tool, two others come with it, so it is very necessary to pay close attention because each one is flexcut sharp! As for the Oar Carver...nice knife, well made it appears, nice shape to the blades....but....a BIG but...they didn't spend 2 cents to get the blade in shape, about the same condition as the back of your bandsaw blade! It is 62 rockwell for hardness and is a bear to try to get an edge on it, I spent a week and finally gave up and sent it off to Cape Forge and let the professionals do it...I am really tried of buying expensive knives and these people can't even put a good sharp, honed edge on them...I mean, we pay enough!! I am going to stick with flexcut and any others that come sharpened and honed period! I don't claim to be the greatest tool sharpener, I don't claim to be the greatest carver either, but between the two, I prefer to spend the hours carving, not trying to get some tool in a condition it should have been when I bought it! there...blew off some steam... :P

Sounds like a couple of 2 cherries knives my wife brought me back from Germany, I can sharpen a popsicle stick sharper then I've been able to get those things! One day I try again, but I'll have to be pretty bored

I actually prefer to sharpen and hone my own tools so that I know the edge angle is what I want. I have a harder time reshaping an edge than I do setting one in the first place and since I carve several different wood types with the same tools I need a 'shorter' bevel than most pre-sharpened blades come with.

I also find sharpening, honing, and stropping my tools to be relaxing. I check all of my tool edges regularly for chips and won't hesitate to go back to the medium stone and hard arkansas to reset an edge if I am not satisfied with a tools results.

[AlArchie]

It's a good thing I don't mind sharpening or I wouldn't have many cuttin' tools! Â*Seems most come 'factory sharp' which means that the blunt edge has been ground down some, and there are an awfull lot of 'grinding marks' left that need to be taken care of before the tools can be used effectively. Â*

Â* I just checked a supplier's site and the folks who make the OAR, RECOMMEND THAT IT BE SHARPENED FIRST WITH A MEDIUM , THEN A FINE DIAMOND STONE BEFORE USE.

Flex Cut is the only mfg that I've found that puts a finished edge on their tools. Â*Even the high end chisles and gouges that I've purchased, although better than the mid range stuff, still benefit from a final honing and stropping.

BUT, you're right, Dave, it sure would be nice to get 'ready to carve with' tools! Â*One exception that I've found, is any tool purchased from Rick Ferry.......he puts a honed and polished edge on evertyhing he sells! Â*Now that's customer service!

My apologies to anyone else who does this that I haven't dealt with.......

Al

I think you'll find most high end tools come in an unsharpened state. The reason is the manufacturer has no idea what you are going to be carving with them so they can't put the correct bevel on them. Flexcuts are hobbyist tools, so they assume (rightly so) basswood. I do a lot of carving on harder woods maple, oak, juniper, etc. so like to do my own bevels.

[MelNM]

I know most companies that do not hone their knives, generally offer to sharpen them for a couple of dollars more. I was wondering if Oar does or not.

[Baldy]

I have one of the Oar Carver knives and have found it to be an exceptional knife. I did put it on a diamond stone first and then polished it with a power strop. When done it turned out to be the best pocket knife I have used. I think the secret is in the diamond stone. Lay the blade flat on the stone with two fingers on the edge side of center so that the blade is flat but with a little more pressue on the cutting edge. Sharpen one side until you get the wire edge and then do the same thing to the other side. Buff to a high polish on a power strop and carve.

It has a great blade shape and I choose the two blades of the same shape as there is a great point on them to do detail and can be ground down again if tip were to break.

I for one am very happy with mine!

: Has anyone tried to sharpen the Carving Jack? It looks like a tough task.

Baldy

[Kenny_S]

Plays heck with those who are first starting out to find their new carving tools don't cut hot butter. Equate it to buying your new automobile and not having a transmission. IT DOESN'T GO! Why buy an expensive carving tool if it don't carve. Lack of quaity control/ Maybe these people don't know what carvers want.

Oh I agree with honeing and stropping but eaplain that to a brandy new carver who don't know or can't hone their own tools. Sure would hate to buy a Ruger NO 1 and find out it didn't have a firing pin.
Anyway, Just my two Abe Lincolns worth.

I vote with the carvers that prefer an edge NOT buffed and polished from the factory. My edge is formed they way I like for the application.

If the factory edge with buffed and polished, it would most likely be blue and burned from an inexperienced factory worker using power tools. I have seen this on many new pocket knives and some low end carving tools.

Regards,
Fred Krow

[makenchips]

Well here is my two cents. I think you should be offered the option on all tools. For those who like to sharpen their own to their requirments they should offer unsharpened tools but for those who want to be up and running as soon as they get their tools, they should come pre-sharpened like flex-cut knives and gouges.