Welcome to the Woodcarving Illustrated Message Board, an online wood carving forum community where you can join thousands of carvers from around the world discussing all things related to carving. To gain full access to the message board you must register for a free account. As a registered member you will be able to:
  • Browse over 90,000 posts.
  • Communicate privately with other carvers from around the world.
  • Post your own photos or view from 3,500 user submitted images.
  • Gain access to exclusive wood carving promotions offered by Wood Carving Illustrated and Fox Chapel Publishing.
All this and much more is available to you absolutely free when you register for an account, so sign up today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the Woodcarving Illustrated Message Board's Support Team.

Go Back   Woodcarving Illustrated Message Board > Wood Carving > General Wood Carving
Connect with Facebook

General Wood Carving

Reply
Share Thread:
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-17-2011, 06:08 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: McBride, BC
Posts: 2,122
Default Following a 2D pattern into 3D wood.

I jointed some cedar and glued it up so there will be a double-wide strip of sapwood right up the centerline of a lilypad dish with an upturned edge. 8" x 8" x 2". The flat floor of the dish was inlet 1" (that was the easy part.)

I have laid out both the front and side views of the frog that holds up the lilypad dish on the straight sides of the block. No bandsaw yet. That was another easy part.
Here's what I have called the "impasse" in most of my carvings: I don't know how to get to the deep features when the pattern drawing gets destroyed in the preliminary carving. For example, frogs have quite a pointy snout, the eyes are set well back on the head.

What's the tip, the trick, the technique to keep track of where those eyes will be, buried so far back in the wood? In the past, I've drilled 1/8" holes that far into the wood. Bottom of the hole = front of the eye. Is that what everybody does?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-17-2011, 07:06 PM
pallin's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Lake Isabella, CA
Posts: 1,591
Default Re: Following a 2D pattern into 3D wood.

Among relief carvers the practice seems to be a matter of defining levels of the carving, then cutting down to the deepest level, etc. Do a search in the Chip & Relief forum on "Levels."
__________________
Phil Allin - Lake Isabella, CA:

My WCI gallery:
Pallin's Gallery
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-17-2011, 10:46 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: McBride, BC
Posts: 2,122
Default Re: Following a 2D pattern into 3D wood.

Pallin: GREAT gallery!
The levels strategy is good for relief carving, it makes logical sense. I need to go around the corner, from the front to the side. How far do I indent the sides without making the front impossible to render? And the reverse?

My puzzle seems to be that the original drawing (front and sides) gets so chopped up in the carving process that locating significant features is really difficult. As the piece becomes "rounder and rounder," the drawings no longer make much sense.
Am I trying to carve too fast and not planning enough?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-17-2011, 11:14 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 19
Send a message via Yahoo to Abbott
Default Re: Following a 2D pattern into 3D wood.

Hi Robson Valley,

Although I'm a new carver. I have done a high relief that brought much pf the carving out of the wood, as a stand alone piece connected only by a small threat of connected wood. I ran into a similar situation and found two strategies that helped me in the process. The first was that I did not start or use a 2D line drawing, other than a basic sketch and instead of cutting the piece out of the wood, I focused on "shaping" around the piece and drew locate lines for each unique feature. Each time I would interrupt the lines with any significant carving, I would leave at least the ends of the lines in place, so I could redraw the locate line again, between them. When I would interrupt the line where the ends of the locate lines were, I would leave enough to use as index points, so they could be redrawn if need be. Between using penciled-in Index lines and shaping the piece as a full unit going closer and closer to the finished look I wanted, position and relationships based on relative position was easier to maintain. I hope this helps. I also took the time to sketch on paper my design and once done I looked at indexing points, as a way to keep relationship positions in place. Good Luck
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-18-2011, 11:46 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: McBride, BC
Posts: 2,122
Default Re: Following a 2D pattern into 3D wood.

OK Abbott, let me see if I've got this right: mallet on one hand, gouge in the other hand and a pencil in the other hand. I spent yesterday afternoon doing 1:1 drawings, trying to imagine the piece half-done.

I do understand what you mean about restoring form lines form the ends, then the middle, as so forth. Going to be a lot of back-and-forth from the right side to the left side. I have two marking gauges that I can set for little scratches. The top rim of the leaf/bowl is level, 1/4" wide still and unfinished. . . . I hope that I can "hang" a lot of L & R measurements from there.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-20-2011, 12:09 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: McBride, BC
Posts: 2,122
Default Re: Following a 2D pattern into 3D wood.

I got it! Abbott, thank you so much.
Key phrase to me in your post:". . . . leave at least the ends of the lines in place. . ."
As I needed to wrap the front and rear of the frog's body around 90 degree corners in the blank, why not START with line gaps which collapse as the carving goes into the block over time?
Have drawings I like. I'll cut them vertically to apply with gaps. "Xray vision" to see how the line ends merge as the carving goes in.
Got it.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-20-2011, 12:21 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 19
Send a message via Yahoo to Abbott
Default Re: Following a 2D pattern into 3D wood.

Cool. I wasn't sure if I was doing a good job in my description. The idea is maintaining some sort of indexing that remains constant or is re-indexed from a remain fragment. You got it. Hope it helps. Chissl, mallet and an occasional pencil.... ha ha ha
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Wood Duck ..hen pattern Ian Duncan Message Board FAQ, Suggestions and Feedback 4 12-11-2008 02:34 PM
Old man pattern Mitchell Caricature Carving 31 10-15-2008 08:51 AM
Transfer pattern to wood? Riverrat999 General Wood Carving 23 08-14-2008 09:55 PM
how do you transfer your pattern on to your wood? stickman Pyrography and Woodburning 9 02-19-2007 11:11 AM
Need pattern Guest Wood Carving for Beginners 2 11-15-2004 10:09 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:34 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2012, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright ©2000 - 2010 Fox Chapel Publishing Co., Woodcarving Illustrated

SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2