drying tree trunks and removing bark

[eugeniat]

I live in a wooded area and needed to eight oak and hickory trees to make room for a barn. Although the branches (for the most part) have been cut and split for firewood, I wanted to make the larger stumps into end tables or display tables for my other art work. The questions I have are.........

What is the best way to remove the bark? I understand it's best to remove it before the bugs move in!

What is the best way to prevent bugs from moving in? I live in Florida and termites are a BIG issue, year-round.

Does anyone have any hints to help me along with this process? I've put some branches aside to be made into a bed, as soon as they dry and are ready for working on.

[davidinsarasota]

Are we talking about tree 'trunks' with root flare and roots or logs?

[eugeniat]

Originally Posted by davidinsarasota

Are we talking about tree 'trunks' with root flare and roots or logs?

Well, there's a mixture. Some are logs or slices and some are about 3' tall with root flare. Will they need to be treated differently? I've had "trunks" with root flare, tall enough to be a side table base, that have lost their bark after a few years of drying. If they need that long to dry out, so be it, but I thought there may be a method that would reduce the wait.

Thanks!

[davidinsarasota]

For logs, remove bark, coat ends with wax, store outside out of sun and rain. I have a porch closet that works well.

Stumps with roots and flare, clean thoroughly, spray or paint on bleach in any area that came in contact with dirt, cut out any decay. Live Oak is better than Laurel (look for tight grain and "rays".

Best trunks with flare are Cypress or Red Cedar, both resistant to disease.

No way, other than kiln drying to speed up process.

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

store off the ground....have them covered but allow air to move through the wood

[eugeniat]

Thank you for the most valuable information!

Most of the big pieces are under roof but some of the larger branches, that are earmarked for a headboard, are upright outside. I'll get them bleached and under tarp ASAP.

Removing the bark on oak (some are live oak and some water oak) is going SLOWLY. I've read about a "bark spud" and a "drawing knife". They look like tools I could create. Do you have any suggestions?

Again, thanks!

[davidinsarasota]

I use this Pfiel draw knife when the bark is tight (fresh logs) and a large cold chisel as a wedge/pry when it has aged a couple months and has drawn back from the wood.

[watereerat]

I, too, need to remove bark from some limbs I want to use for walking sticks. I hate to sound totally ignorant, but in the previous post with photo, is the Pfeil knife the two-handled doo-dad (now I'm sounding like a woman, which I am), in the center? Sort of like a mini two-person saw? If so, where in the heck did you find it?

Been away from carving almost a year because of major shoulder surgery to repair lots of stuff that was torn up in there, then months of therapy to recover from the surgery and from "frozen shoulder." Took a power carving class this weekend and FINALLY learned how to use my power carver (YAY) so naturally, I'm ready to forget housework, office work,--any kind of work, period--and get to carving! LOL!

[AlArchie]

Some hardware stores still handle draw knives and you can find them at Rockler, Woocraft, Lee Valley, Lehmans and lots of other on line stores. They range in size from small 5" ones to large 16" models. They are used by holding with both hands and pulling toward you. There is a variation to these tools called a "push knife"..similar to the draw knife but with straight handles.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/Search.aspx?action=n

http://www.woodcraft.com/Search/Sear...y=draw%20knife

http://www.lehmans.com/store/Tools_F...s___13884?Args=

Lehmans has some HUGE ones.

Do a search for draw knives and you'll find lots of sources.

Al

[watereerat]

Thanks Al, I'll give a look and see what I can afford. Assuming these things need to be sharpened, and I'm not the best sharpener in the world . . . oh well, you get the picture. I'm okay with knives and most of my carving tools, but this drawknife looks to be more challenging.

My husband has a power jointer (and every other imaginable piece of woodworking equipment). Think it's possible for him to remove the bark on his jointer? I know it would mean turning the piece often and I'd have to round off any square places, but it might save tons of time and that sucker stays sharp a long, long time. Probably a safety risk in there somewhere. Wonder how many fingers he really NEEDS to get through life?

OMG! He also has a big lathe... But that would make the whole thing round and I might not want that.

Can you tell I want someone else to do the muscle work? LOL!