Centering add-ons and carvings

[BrandantR]

I call this little gadget a centering pin. It's nothing more than the tip of a small brad cut off, sharpened at both ends, and soldered into a tiny piece of copper plate. When I'm trying to get a carving add-on lined up for matching dowel holes or when attaching a carving to a base, I use these little guys to show me where to drill the hole as it creates pilot holes in both pieces that are lined up perfectly. It takes all of the guesswork out of where to drill those dowel holes. There's a much more indepth explanation with pictures on my blog if you care to stop by and take a look at how it works. Hope this tip helps someone.

[Soggy]

Great idea Brandant!..........I'm going to have to make a couple of those this weekend. I can see where they would come in very handy.
Thanks for sharing
Wayne

[Nomad]

Excellent! Thanks for the great tip!

[BrandantR]

Thanks guys. I hope it helps somebody.

[Robson Valley]

Brandant: That is a cool trick. Well done.
I've been using dowel-centering pin-plugs, they come in several sizes like 1/4" 3/8" and so on.
Having gone to absolutely anal lengths to preserve the centerlines (a beak on a Raven for example)
I line up the pieces and guesstimate where the hole goes in the larger piece. Drill that. The little aluminum mushroom fits in that hole, has a point (like yours). I line up piece #2 over that and give a little push to make a mark for the matching hole.

The great advantage to your innovation is that it all gets done at the same time!
Question: do you think that a piece of copper-plated printed circuit board is too thick at maybe 1/16"??????

[BrandantR]

Hey Robson Valley,

I've seen those dowel pins like you are talking about and they work great for woodworking, but not so much in carving in my opinion. To answer your question, I don't think that 1/16" would be too thick. The piece of copper that I used was 16oz. copper flashing. You could certainly use a piece of tin or sheet metal too. If you think it's too thick, just give it a couple of blows on the old anvil to smash it thinner (probably wouldn't work too well on a circuit board since I think they have some kind of plastic inside). Anyway, give it a try and see if it works.

[Robson Valley]

OK. If I grind the brad pin centers really short, it shouldn't matter. You have eliminated all the middle steps = I don't ever have to let go of the add-on until everything is marked.
I will be roughing out some 4" x 12" x 36" ravens tomorrow (if the rain ever quits). The beaks have to be add ons. Your trick will save me bags of time and grief. They are the next step beyond the dowel pins.

[Lynn O. Doughty]

Great tip but I find this method is much easier and quicker.

1. Drill a hole in one of the two pieces.
2. Using a graphite sketching pencil color the edge of the drilled hole.
3. Press the two pieces together in the position you want.
4. Now look at the second piece.....you will see a mirror image of the hole on the first piece.
5. Drill it!
6. Works everytime!

You can also use a similar method when attaching your piece to a base with dowels, etc.

1. Drill the holes in the figure but don't blow or tap out the sawdust.
2. Carefully place the figure on the base in the position you want.
3. Use a few soft but firm taps on the top of the figure or close to where the holes are.
4. Remove the figure and you'll see a small pile of sawdust where each drilled hole was.
5. Holding your breath so you don't blow things away, mark these spots and drill them.
6. Works everytime!

[Gulf Coast Handyman]

Great idea Brandant!. Awesome tip!

Dave

[Robson Valley]

Thanks, Lynn. Nice to read that there are options to getting this done, reliable methods to pick from. I was kind of stuck with the dowel pins until Brandant spoke up. Now, you add a couple of "no-tools" alternatives.