carving bowls, plates etc... what to treat with??

[jrose1]

Hi everyone,

I am new to this forum, but have been reading some of the threads in the chainsaw carving section as this is what I do most of. So first of all, my apologies if this is in the wrong place, or has been asked before I couln't find any information on the search but might have been putting the wrong words in!

As mentioned, I have been carving with a chainsaw for about 6 months and things seem to be coming along. There have been a couple of times when I've sliced the top 5 inches or so off a piece of wood so it'll stand straight, and looked at the resulting "cookie" and thought I might be able to do something with it.

I am interested in trying to do a simple plate to start with, possibly leading to bowls or something. My question is, are these usually treated with any sort of varnish or oil? I'm not sure if there are any which are considered safe to eat from on a regular basis.

Cheers,
Joe

[Dicky]

One that is safe for sure is Mineral oil purchased at a pharmacy. You may have to redo it from time to time but it will never turn rancid on you.

[bigEd_H]

Smoky Mountain Woodcarvers sells Howard Butcher Block Conditioner (you can most likely get it other places) that is a mixture of bees wax, carnauba wax, vitamin E and food grade mineral oil. It works great for bowls, spoon and such.

[jrose1]

thanks a lot, I'll look into both of these. I usually use danish oil, but I'm a bit wary of the possible health impacts of eating off it on a regular basis (especially if I decide to sell any, where it's other people affected!)

cheers,
Joe

[cut up]

Joe, I think Woodcraft sells a salad bowl finish, but I've used the mineral oil like Dicky suggested, without any problems. I've told my wife not to submerse the bowl in water, just to do a quick wash rinse and dry. We only use it for popcorn, and occasionally, rolls.

[Niloc]

I use Mineral Oil on my spoons and such that I carve. However, my uncle carves bowls on his lathes and he uses, Tung Oil (Tung oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia). He use to use Mineral Oil until somewhat recently when he switched.

[Howard Lobb]

Hey Joe welcome to this form!
I agree with Ed, There are several other food safe finishes for kitchen ware as well, I have used several kinds over the years as I worked out the exact questions you have. Before the home computer was so available and the information that abounds... As I carve a lot of bowls and sell them along with a lot of spoons, the finish is critical first for safety second durability and appeal all this may seem elementary but I think of it as I can't sell or even gift a product that could harm anyone in any foreseeable way, and the fact you are asking implies you feel the same way. So I will research the finishes I use as best I can. From what I understand Mineral oil from the drugstore is as safe as it gets as it is meant to be taken internally in very small amounts though. Then there are food safe finishes that are available that are designed like the Howard Butcher Block Conditioner, Claphams Saladbowl Finish, etc. I have used walnut oil Cold pressed that was recommended by a fellow bowl and spoon carver. But the nut thing scared me when I hear that possible deadly allergies from traces of Peanuts and some manufacturers and producers now say " MAY CONTAIN TRACES OF PEANUTS and their bye products. I stay away from any finish that contains distillates used for dryers or finishes that contain petroleum based ingredients, Easy to pick out they tell you on the label "Harmful If Swallowed". I can't afford to be shy here with this I would really not recommend Tung oil for this reason, EVEN though I know that at one time it was considered a great food safe finish many, years ago, that statues has changed. I'm not debating ANY ONE here or looking for trouble. Decide for your self and the opinion I offer is still only one guys opinion. I don't know it all I don't have all the answers. this is simply my experience and limited understanding. I reserve the right to be wrong. ,,, H

[markken5889]

Hey Joe,

I use the butcher block finish; got some from Home Depot. It's just mineral oil & beeswax. Works great if you dunk the bottle in warm water for a few minutes to loosen it up. You can also use the mineral oil straight. I've even heard of people using straight ole' olive oil.

Mark

[jrose1]

well, thanks a lot everyone! I will look into some of these, I don't know if the butcher block conditioner is available in the UK but I'll have a look round.

I haven't even attempted a bowl or plate yet, so it might be some time before I sell any as I'm sure it'll turn out harder than I imagine it to be at the moment!

cheers,
Joe

[BobD]

According to Bob Flexner (the wood finishing guru) every finish is food safe if you allow it to cure properly.

Shellac is used in most medicines that come in pill form. I can understand being cautious of petroleum distillates, but the reason the PD work so well as solvents in a finish is because they are volitile and "gas off" quickly. That's why a finish smells so strongly while it's drying.

Personally, if I want something to be food safe, I either sand it up to a very fine grit of sandpaper and leave it unfinished, I use a beeswax finish, or I use shellac dissolved in food-quality alcohol (rather than denatured alcohol). Denatured alcohol is grain alcohol that has been treated to make it poisonous in a way that makes it impossible to make it non-poisonous. The food-quality alcohol (grain alcohol, everclear) can be hard to find sometimes, which is why I usually stick with beeswax.

Bob