[Lynn O. Doughty]

Years ago I bought a Bandsaw Blade Repair kit out of one of the many woodworking catalogs I receive. It cost, at the time, about what a new blade costs now, $15.00. It came with a clamp which is held in a shop vice, a bottle of flux and a strip of silver-solder which I've been using for the past 8 years and still have over half of it left.

I have found it's very easy to repair a blade, taking only about 5 minutes from removing it from the saw to reinstalling it once it fixed. I take the two ends and sand an opposite bevel on each end on my little Dremel belt sander, only takes a second and I don't really worry about getting it exactly even, just eyeball it. I clamp each end in the clamp, lining up the bevels. I apply flux to the join and snip off a little piece of solder and slide it in between the two bevels. I then fire up my propane torch and heat the two pieces till they are red hot and then let it cool. With my little Dremel handgrinder I grind off any hump of solder so the blade is smooth.

To date, no weld I've made has ever broken. I have patched blades as many as five times or before they get so I can slip the blade over the saws wheels. Then I toss them.

I'll bet I've saved hundreds of dollars on blades doing my own repairs so those of you out there who might feel intimidated about repairing them, don't! If I can do it I'm sure you can.

I buy Olsen 3/16" skip tooth blades for my saw. The skip tooth really eats the wood and slides right through 6" stock with no problem. I take a file and when a new blade is mounted I hold the file on each back edge of the blade to round it off. This lets me turn a much sharper angle without the blade hanging up. These blades stay sharp until they've been repaired so much they no longer fit.

[carver6]

I've seen those kits in catalogs and often wondered how well they would work, but was to tight to buy one and try it. Thanks for the info. Will spring for one now that I've seen this post.
Thanks again.
Garon

[Coffeeman]

Lynn, My Dad taught us the same thing years ago and he always said that the new welded spot wil never break, its stronger than the blade itself, so far for me, its been true to his word.

Thanks for the tip on filing the back corner edge round, would never have thought of that. Next trip downstairs to the shop, it will be done.

Bill

[Thomp]

i just made a post this weekend in the tools section about the same topic, discussing a harbor freight bandsaw blade welder...

in votech we had a blade welder affixed to a big Rockwell bandsaw, if we wouldn't have learned to use it lot of bandsaw work wouldn't have gotten done due to resupply funds were limited.. it basically was a spot welder and grinder.. best welds would still bump but there a life saver

from our stock of 50 broke or over sized blades, we kept the bandsaw working for 2 years while i was there... by cutting them down or adding on when they didn't fit...

[brian bailey]

I use Olsen blades too. Mostly 1/4" & 1/2". Long life and cheap.

I cut a lot of wood with them and find when they do finally work harden enough to crack and break, they ain't worth the time in trying to repair them, so they get tossed.

Do the same with my 1 1/4 & 1 1/2 " WoodMizer sawmill blades.

I use a coarse stone to round the back of the blade instead of a file, works better imo. Make sure you blow the wood dust out of the saw so no fire gets started from a spark.

[BobD]

Speaking of Olsen blades...has anyone else tried the 3/32" blades...they are a hoot! Only slightly bigger than a scroll saw blade, but they slice through basswood!!!

I've got a review on them in the upcoming issue!

Bob

[mdallensr]

Yes Bob, the 3/32" blade seems like just what I need. I bought two, at the sale price, so it was a double win. I have a lot of bandsawing and scrolling to do on blanks this fall, and the new blade should be a winner. Mike

[Lynn O. Doughty]

Just ordered 5 new blades as I just repaired the last one I had and had to force it on the wheels. Hope it lasts till the new ones arrive. Counted the welds and there are six!! 6 X $13.50= $81.00 saved. And thats just one blade.

[Kenny_S]

Some are not mechanically inclined to repair their own blades. But yes you can save money by welding your own. I have one weld on a 10 year old blade but it just sit there now. That is why I buy Wolf brand sawblades fro the Band saw and Flying dutchman for the scroll saw blades. But then, Just my two Abe Lincolns worth.

[mdallensr]

You can save even more money by buying bulk blade stock and welding your own original blades. Most of the major blade manufacturers sell by the foot, in 100 foot rolls. Mike