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#1
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The pics I'm adding aren't the best, but you may get the idea how to do it. I make my own from a stock coil, and repair them if they break, only one time. By then they are dull enough to go for a new one. There are also some youtube videos show how to do it. Not by me. You have to start by grinding off a bevel on both ends so you have an overlap. Have the teeth going the same direction in your hand when doing this, otherwise the overlap won't work. You then need some flux, and some silver solder. Regular solder won't work. Heat the blade until red, and the solder will melt. It flows out really well. Then you have to grind off the excess with a dremel, or file. and you should be good to go. You can make your own blades for about $5 each , depending on how much you have to pay for the coil stock. Starrett is a good brand. Tom |
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#2
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One shop I worked at had a little 110 volt welder just for that purpose. I got a box of blades with my saw when I purchased it 20 years ago, just put the last one on a few months ago. I'll definitely look into buying coil stock when I need another, thanks for the post Tom.
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#3
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I just use my little disk sander to slope the two ends and then they're held in place by the blade repair gizmo I bought years ago. I generally get 5 re-welds out of a blade before it becomes too small to get back on the wheels. Here's a link to one very similar to mine. I paid about 15 dollars for mine but that was quite a few years ago. Still a good investment considering the price of new blades each time one breaks. Tom is right about the coil stock if you want to go that route. http://vipsourcing.com.tw/product.ph...&cid=35&pid=27
__________________ Out West Woodcarving Blog: www.outwestwoodcarving.blogspot.com Out West Gallery www.outwestgallery.com |
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#4
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I forgot to mention that you have to cut the blade about 1/2 inch longer than your saw calls for, so you make up for the overlap. There is one similar to Lynn's on eBay for 34.99 . I made my own and bought solder at a welding supply. Good luck, Tom |
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#5
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Thanks Tom for the info! I feel I could do this because I know how to silver solder from my hand wrought silver jewelry making days.
__________________ My Gallery- http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...on-of-the-dell My etsy store- http://www.etsy.com/shop/Woodforddel...f=pr_shop_more |
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#6
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Sharon, It is very simple, if you get the bevels right. Saves a person a lot of money if you do a lot of work with your bandsaw. I have found they last a lot longer than the butted/welded joints. Give it a try. Tom |
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#7
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Tom, Excellent info there!! I've seen the jigs and knew it could be done, but you have taken a lot of the mystery out of the process itself. Thanks for posting this! L.P.
__________________ Mitakuye Oyasin, Inadv Rule 1: Don't part with your illusions. When they are gone you may still exist, but you have ceased to live. - Mark Twain Rule 2: There's no present. There's only the immediate future and the recent past. - George Carlin |
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#8
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For what you are able to save Larry, you can pay for supplies in no time. Tom |
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#9
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Great idea Tom, thanks for sharing. Dave |
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#10
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Terry asked me for some specs on my blade jig, It is just a piece of steel, with a thick bandsaw blade attached, which helps keep the blade lined up ready to solder. Cut out the space in the middle with enough room to line up the blades, and get your flux applied, then fire away. The void is 1 5/8 inch across, and 3/4 inch deep. The spring clamps help hold the blade flat, and in place while soldering. Tom Last edited by Tom Ellis; 01-07-2012 at 05:32 PM. |
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