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#1
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I just recieved a branding iron that was a Christmas gift. The advice with the iron was "Seal it with clear shellac and then you can varnish or paint over it. Otherwise the resins in the wood will play havoc with the varnish." I would typically be branding the bottom (bare wood - no paint) and usually coat in Danish oil and Deft. I still have to test it, but I'm worried that it will look good right away, but further down the road look bad. Does anyone have experience with this and do I really need shellac if it won't be painted over? Thanks Eric |
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#2
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A branding iron is basically no different that a woodburn or pyrography tool. With some woods you may have a problem wit heat raised resins; mostly the coniferous species. Some hardwoods, also. Basswood, birch, maple, elm and the like won't be a problem...at least none that I've found. Al |
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#3
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I've been using one for several years with no problem.I saw a similar note but did nothing with mine. As Al indicated, I use in mostly with basswld, oak and poplar. Bob |
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#4
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Thanks for the advice. I figured it would be about the same as woodburning, but I have no experience there yet either. If it were to have a problem with the resin, do you think it would show quickly? Eric |
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#5
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I have been branding bread/cutting boards, and wood toys for over thirty years made from a large variety of wood, and have never had a problem with a finish over a brand. Woody |
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#6
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Just finished a relief in really old white pine (125 yr or more) and did some burning for accents. The resin in spots came to the surface immediately. I didn't shelac this piece, but wiped the pitch areas with paint thinner. This removed the surface resin. I know the stuff will work it's way through the poly finish eventually, but this is a piece carved as an "antique" relief so the resin seepage will only enhance the effect. Gotta work with what ya got. I'll post a pic of this piece later down in the Relief section. Gotta wait for the finish todry. Al |
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