Boiled Linseed Oil...Why I Hate It!

[AlArchie]

Here's a quote from The Natural Handyman.

"Boiled" linseed oil is not boiled. The actual boiling of some oils changes their drying characteristics, true. With linseed oil, though, it is the addition of certain solvents that causes linseed oil to dry more quickly, acting as if it were boiled. This makes it a better product for preserving tool handles, decks, and furniture. I suppose they should have named it "sort-of-boiled linseed oil", or "kinda-like-boiled-but-not-really-boiled linseed oil". You know... to make it less confusing. Uh huh.

I'm back...not quoting any more. when I was working with a paint and hardware store, we had volumes on the stuff. It hasn't been boiled for years (decades) but now is treated with chemical dryiers (japan dryer, and a few other metalic salts to speed drying. Different brands use different formulas. I don't remember what all was added and I don't see any list of ingredients other than "dryers added". You figure!

Al

[brian-bailey]

Here's an interesting link to choosing a wood finish.

http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/ht...singFinish.htm

[Just Carving]

Thanks Brian Bailey. You answered my question with your link.

Water-based finishes are based upon the same components as the finishes we discussed above – notably urethane (usually made without the oil), alkyd and acrylic. But the flammable and polluting solvents have been partly replaced by water....the addition of the urethane makes the resin tougher and more scratch resistant – but that’s where it stops. Water-based urethanes do not have the solvent and heat resistance of the oil-based counterparts.

The best all–around finish that looks pretty good and will hold up to harsh abuse is oil based polyurethane if you apply finishes by hand...Water base versions of these finishes are almost as durable, but lack the depth and warmth of the oil based versions...the smell and dry time may be an issue, in which case water base poly works best.

Finally – if you want a finish that doesn’t yellow, get a water-base finish based upon acrylic or non-yellowing polyurethane.

Works for me. Now my next question: Can I use an acrylic polyurethane over acrylic craft paints?

[Lynn O. Doughty]

Bob....Sure you can use the waterbased polys over acrylic paints. The only drawback with waterbased poly is that it is so clear it doesn't give a piece of wood the warmth of an oil finish. The very slight amber look of oilbased finishes are what really makes a piece look good. At least to me.

[Kenny_S]

I repeat what I said about "Orange Glo". It makes the old "bad bad bad BLO soaked carving" look brand new like it has been freshly completed. I use it and some KNown excellent carvers use it. Smells good, too!
To each his own.
I will agree, it is a informative thread but for those who Hate BLO, don't use it, that is your right, end of story. For those who likes it and use it, that is your right., end of story!
To bring up Lynn's point of the Anderson carving that had been soaked in BLO andf dusty, I have seen carvings with Deft, Miniwax, danish oil and other applications with dust all over them.

However, the point may be, are you to lazy to dust your carvings off?HEHEHE.


The word soaking implies that a carving sets in the BLO and soaks up the oil.
I would rather use the term dipping and running off.

I dip, you dip, we dip.

[Just Carving]

Thanks, Lynn. I wasn't sure whether the two would be compatible.

[Canopener]

OK; so I have been a big fan of BLO with some burnt umber oil paint for contrast, but I can change. You are all making some good points.
I have also been using both tung oil and danish oil on furniture for years, and I like them.
So does anybody mix burnt umber oil with the danish/tung oil?
Do you use something like the Watco danish med walnut for antiqueing, and then wipe it off?
Are you guys hardcore on the natural finish?
I am sorry for the questions; but change is diff-diff-diff a cult for me. I alwaze liked the BLO fumes.
Jim

[Ashbys]

I like the danish oils as well. I know Susan uses them as well and often mixes paint with them. The Clear makes a good combination for thinning down the dark walnut for a antique finish.

I also like the new red mahogany thinned down , gives a red burnt tint for a bit of color for the antique finish.

Ice Cream

Add a light varish top coat and the wood gets incredable depth from the danish oils .

[Irish]

So … It’s 9 am and I am grabbing a few moments on the message board before work begins and reading Lynn’s posting … so … I am typing my four point response, trying to be clear, crisp but not absolute in my reply while extremely conscience of my atrocious spelling … so … I am bouncing back and forth between reading Lynn’s statement, typing my response while editing my spelling through my Word program … so … in trying to change/edit/correct one of my many spelling errors I lost everything … at which point the studio phone rang and the day has gone down hill from there …. So … being stubborn and tenacious I will try again! And with the way this day has gone y’all can watch me now go over the cliff!

I totally agree with Lynn that for his style of carving and his style of painting that BLO would not be an appropriate choice of finishes! With caricature carving the planes of the cuts usually run with the grain with some but limited end grain work. Plus with his wonderful style of bright bold and clean colors BLO would neither enhance the application of those color or allow those colors to brightly show.

As a relief carver a majority of my carved planes are end grain. This opens the surface of the wood to excessive drying over time where the wood can lose it’s natural oil content. Excessive oil lose is a prime reason for a relief carving to cup/bend or buckle over time. To counter act the eventual lose of natural oils, as a relief carver, I will use BLO with most of my carvings as a finishing step.

I mix my Boiled Linseed Oil about half and half with either turpentine or mineral spirits before any applications. This thinned mixture does not puddle into the deep cuts or become gummy. Instead the turpentine facilitates the oil in it’s deep penetration of the wood fibers. The inner layers of wood contain vascular bundles, those soda straws that we learned about in high school biology that draw the ground water up into the canopy of the tree. Those same vascular bundles are the open end grain of the carving and draw the oil mixture deep into the wood.

Since most of my carvings when colored are painted with oil paints or by dry brushing layers of acrylic paints BLO provides me a workable surface that allows better blending and movement of my colors. Several coats of BLO allows the color to flow instead of grab giving me more control over my mixed color combinations.

BLO, for me, is often the first coating of the finishing process. It is easily colored with oil paints creating wonderful pale stain colors for the carving. It can be left un-colored or painted over and you can apply BLO, set the piece aside for a time then return to the work and easily make changes in the coloring or finished look. So it is very forgiving and adaptable to changes.

Many projects for me remain BLO only. This is because they photograph without any shine that can be caused by the flash of a camera. This creates cleaner photos and images for posting. Those projects that will earn a place on my display shelf will have a top coating of polyurethane spray or wax. Either give a beautiful shine while helping to seal the oil into the carving.

Finally, I also use Danish Oil finish (a favorite), Tung oil (great for furniture work), Minwax sealer (OK – but not a favorite). Polyurethane spray and where someone suggested Orange Glow I have used Old English Liquid polish with great success. Each of these finishes has it’s place and it’s special rationales behind their use according to the project and it’s desired finished effect. And I use sanding sealer as a finishing effect and these also effect the final coats and which product I use as that final coating.

Now … I have stated what “I� do and why “I� do it, but one this point I am inflexible! All chemicals that we use in the studio or shop are potential fire hazards!!!! Please read your labels before you even open the can, jar or bottle. And, even if you are an old carving veteran and have used any chemical for years tonight is a great time to refresh your memory by reading those warning labels and taking all precautions to protect yourself and your family.

Susan

If I have a spelling error … deal with it J

[Callynne]

Lots of great information here.....now if we just had spell check, this site would be PERFECT!! Deborah.....who proof reads exactly how I MEANT to spell the word!! Sarcastic