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General Wood Carving | |||
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#1
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Hi, I have some 2 inch thick planks I'd like to split. Apart from a large bandsaw or such, is there any reasonable way to split them? I tried with a ripsaw but - I had to start from four sides because the plank pulled together, and so I got 4 grooves - it ended up a mess. Any ideas?
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#2
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Are you trying to rip those planks into 1" thick ones or are you trying to make narower boards of them? How wide are your planks? Are they milled planks or old riven ones? If they are riven, you may be able to rive them into narrower boards.....if they are milled, that definitely will not work. Maybe it's not the plank that's binding...could be your saw has no set to it. Have you checked that? A bit more info and maybe we can help you. Al |
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#3
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Hi, -trying to split them into 1" thick planks -width around 8-10" -milled I suppose -the saw is a japanese ripsaw (so - thin blade) -the straighter grained planks don't bind too much but there are not many of those I guess a bandsaw must be the only way for planks of that size though... but decided to ask anyway. Henri |
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#4
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Henri, You need to make a frame saw to resaw those planks. Here are a couple of pictures of my frame saw. The blade is a .042" x 1.25" wide x 4' long bandsaw blade. It has 4 teeth per inch and cuts quite fast. It is also an excellent aerobic exercise machine ! |
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#5
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Brian, I'm curious, how do you keep a straight cut with that rig? I would like to use something like that, since a bandsaw would certainly anger the neighbors in my apt building.
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#6
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I also cut a starting kerf with a panel saw on opposite corners about an inch deep so the frame saw doesn't have to start the cut. The 4 foot blade can be pretty bouncey when starting a cut especially in hardwoods. After a few strokes, I check the back side of the cut. If I see that the kerf is starting to wander off the line, I'll rotate the piece 180 degrees and bring the cut back on line. I also flip the board end for end, so my last cut will be somewheres near the middle of the board. This is just to make the board easier to keep clamped in the vise when sawing. With a sharp blade that is evenly set, the saw will cut quite accurately. The trick with using a framesaw is to let the saw do the work, you just guide it. I hope I don't mislead anyone into thinking that this method of resawing is easy! It's not! But, if you're into neanderthal woodworking or just want to stay un-plugged it certainly is a viable option. |
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#7
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nice saw and especially nice work bench!!!
__________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/daviddunlap |
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#8
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Brian, What great, not-available-elsewhere, feedback! While I don't plan to rush right down and make this happen in my own shop ( I think I'd practice a few times on some cheap pine at the very least), it does answer a no-band saw question I have had kicking around in my head for some time. Thanks for the thorough reply to this thread Brian. Russ |
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#9
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Thanks, I think I even have an old frame saw (almost a museum piece) at my cottage - gotta see if the blade is still workable. The starting kerfs are a good idea. Also gotta see at the hardware stores - they might still be selling frame saws, if the one I have is bust. Hey - thanks again, this was a good idea, and of course obvious now that someone pointed it out. Been so long since I've seen anyone using a frame saw (I think around 40 years) I didn't have a chance to find it myself. Took a better look at the picture - of course the saw I have is the more usual model. This looks even better, going to make one! Henri |
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#10
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Dave, My dad made the bench about 30 yrs. ago. He worked for the power company and salvaged transformer pallets for the wood to make the bench. A lot of projects, both his and mine have got their start on that bench. In regards to resawing, you can do a lot of resawing with just a panel rip saw 4 tpi that you can get at the local hardware store. I made the frame saw for the longer blade length so the saw dust clears out of the kerf better which allows me to resaw wider stock. I'm glad my posts have helped or inspired. |
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