im' under cutting too deep?

Thomp · #1 01-10-2005, 01:59 AM

removing stock between arm and body or between legs has always been tricky for me, usually leaving results that im making my under cuts too deep,

is there a way to keep from leaving these undercut marks?

other than bandsawing? or coping saw?

my recent results of elf looks like he has rode a bob wire fence... from the results of removing stock with a chip knife....

have had some good results with razor saw, but tough to clean up saw marks,

my dremel with a mini rasp is too hard to controll??

not complaining, there wouldnt be any enjoyment to carving if you didnt have the puzzles that pop up daily,
but it just seams im missing something here i dont see marks in others work..

thanks

rick-in-seattle · #2 01-10-2005, 02:20 AM

I'm not positive I know what you are talking about, but I imagine you are leaving cuts in the material that should be smooth when finished?

If that is the problem, I can offer two suggestions; but in the words of President Nixon "let me say this about that".

If you take a decorative painting class, you will hear a lot about "brush control".

That means knowing what results your hand movements will cause at the end of the brush.

That is similar to "knife control" (I just made that term up).
Still, knowing where your blade tip is at all times is very important. That is why I recommend carvers do not use other carvers knives; and that they be very careful with a new knife.
It takes time to become familar with a knifes character.

The second suggestion is reversing your cut direction if possible.
Instead of cutting into a V, start at the intersection and cut out of it.
This feels very strange, but results in a clean cut if the grain direction allows for it.

Okay, I know this is three suggestions, but try using more V-tools and shallow gouges. Good luck

Plain_Ol_Ed · #3 01-10-2005, 06:36 AM

I've had good luck opening up the area of the crotch with the Stubai veiners. You can do all kinds of neat tricks with them due to their design.

Mitchell · #4 01-10-2005, 08:26 AM

I agree with Rick. It takes a little time, but knowing where your knife tip is inside of the wood will help this alot.

If you have the tools and want to experiment..... I sometimes use a fairly wide #3 that has been rounded to make slicing cuts in these crevices. I can take most of the wood out and then use my knife to clean up. This way, there is less wood and it's easier to tell where the tip of my knife is.

Hi_Ho_Sliver · #5 01-10-2005, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Plain_Ol_Ed

I've had good luck opening up the area of the crotch with the Stubai veiners. You can do all kinds of neat tricks with them due to their design.

You shouldn't carve in your lap Ed!

Big_Al · #6 01-10-2005, 09:56 AM

After 12 years of sharpening some of my knife blades they are very thin at the tip, I use these for the "Crotch area" Prafctice practice practice. Big Al

Thomp · #7 01-10-2005, 01:18 PM

Blade cuts Left after finished?

MATERIAL: BASSWOOD

My problem comes from a point way earlier than depicted in the photo, during rough out but before finalization , When removing the stock wood from places like shown below...

another showing final results before sanding

Cut in right thigh black line as it appears here...

ed' as you said, Im sure "my knife - blade control" practices, is part of my problem, which makes small nicks dings and scratches as your concentrating so intensly on the very tip of the knife, and trying to free hair sized slivers you cut out, you tend to overlook the shaft of the blade, and dings-creases result...

I think i got you there,

Thinking i could decrease the amount of nicks and dings

Since the area of stock removal here is less than 1/4" between the knees, and nothing on the other end,

i did a home made modified on a hooked exacto blade, it is re-ground the thin edeges removed top of the cutting edege and rounded over all except the very 1/8th" of the sharp tip, i even rounded the back side of the blade to keep it from creasing, it helped.. the blade is 1/8th inch by 7/8" just a toothpick of a blade... this blade is so flexable im sure it wont be around long. but a good experiment... to sadisfy the curriosity.

I have a crudely made walnut hollow palm gouge set which has 1/8th u gouge but it was of absolutely no use, in cutting cross grain,, the 1/8th gouge is made of 1/4th" stock

The exacto blade is gorilla glued into mahogony handle if you were currious...

Sorry for grain in photos best i could do with magnifying glass and cheap digital camera

http://www.picturetrail.com/thomp