wood x tools x carving style x subject ?

[wizzla111]

Hello,
I would like to know the following please and hope people can help with some answers -
1/ Which woods can be carved by which level of carver, eg;
beginner, intermediate ,advanced, professionals only ?
2/ Which hand tools can be used on which woods, eg; knife/s, palm
tools, chisels/gouges used with a mallet ?
3/ Which hand tool and wood combination can be used for which style/type
of carving ?
4/ Which subject matter is suitable for which carving style ?

Thank You

[Donna_T]

Kevin,
Perhaps it would be helpful to know what all kinds of wood are available to you before we start generating opinions.

Because I have weakened hands (age and injury), I don't do hand carving on hard, hard woods like "nut" woods (pecan, walnut, etc.) I've done some power carving on them and like these kinds of woods for stylized pieces where I can do most if not all of it with power.

I do like a good piece of butternut for hand and power carvings that I'm going to do in a natural finish (not painted). I don't do mallet carving--I only do hand-held carving and power carving. I use palm, intermediate sized, and full sized tools to do all my carving. For the larger sized tools, I just "choke" up on them and hold the tool by the shank instead of the handle.

It's my opinion that you can use any tool on any wood--depending on the sharpness and degree of bevel and your abilities. I would not encourage a brand new carver to try walnut or the harder woods right off the start, but would after they've carved for awhile and want a challenge.

It's hard to beat basswood for the beginner carver. Catalpa, aspen, white pine, tupelo (for power only) are all fairly easy to carve for beginners. It's also hard to beat basswood for an intermediate and advanced carver.

Again, these are my opinions based on my experience. Personally, I'd try any wood for any subject at least once just to see for myself how it would carve. I've tried shrub roots and limbs, poison ivy, driftwood, barkand discarded pallet wood--who know what I'll try next!

Donna T

[DManning]

Without knowing what "local" wood you have available, I wouldn't be able to suggest anything. One thing you can do is locate a "cross-reference" list and compare the relative hardness and workability values of what you have to what is given for basswood. These lists are available on-line through most wood suppliers or in general carving books (like Tangerman used to put out).
I use mainly knives for my carvings (sometimes using machines for roughing) and have had good luck with a lot of "found" wood. I've had good luck with grapefruit, eucalyptus, alder, and fence posts of unknown origin.
Just try a small chunk of whatever you find and cut it with whatever you have available. You'll soon know if it's a "keeper" or if you should keep looking.
Good Luck,
Dan

[Mitchell]

Originally Posted by wizzla111

I first became interested in carving with the intention of learning to do flat plane caricatures and then try other styles over time.
Basswood (lime) is coming in at £144.75 per 2"x2"x6ft length.
As a total beginner to carving it may turn out I use several of those per month, therefore it is not within my price range.
I understand from reading the forum that this wood is recommended, other woods I have seen used on the forum are butternut, tupelo and jelutong, which I have not seen for sale locally.
So I will need to use other woods, I am unsure if that means I will need to
begin an alternative style of carving with a different subject matter, hence my questions and the point of this post.

Questions

I would like to know the following please and hope people can help with some answers -

1/ Which woods can be carved by which level of carver, eg;
beginner, intermediate ,advanced, professionals only ?

2/ Which hand tools can be used on which woods, eg; knife/s, palm
tools, chisels/gouges used with a mallet ?

3/ Which hand tool and wood combination can be used for which style/type
of carving ?

4/ Which subject matter is suitable for which carving style ?

Thank You

Kevin

Kevin, As a beginner, you may be trying to take on too much at one time. I don't mean from a carving aspect, but from an information aspect. (I'm joking a bit here)......

Of the woods that you listed, basswood (limewood) IS the most economical. Tupelo may be close, but does not carve as well with hand tools.

If you want to learn flat plane, it will require a "softer" wood. As others have mentioned, it's difficult to make recommendations without knowing other species readily available to you.

Some possible (not necessarily 100% accurate) answers to your questions:

1/ I don't think there's an answer. Softer wood is easier to carve hence mostly preferred by beginners. Hard and/or grainy (sp?) woods are more suitable for experienced carvers, but it may be more defined by the end-use than by the carving level of the artist.

2/ All can. Really depends more on the SIZE and personal preference of the artist.

3/ditto

4/ Not too sure what you are asking..... I would suggest some stylized type carving if you have different types of woods available to get a feel for them and to develop some techniques as a SECOND option. My first suggestion (as far as priority) is to use the lime, cut it down to smaller sizes and practice carving what you want to learn to carve on that - for example 2x2 cut down to 1x1..... you could get much more "bang for the buck" that way.

Another option for possible wood sources is to find a shop that uses wood and negotiate for scrap. Cabinet makers, furniture, etc. Also - although not highly recommended - is to look for old pallets, or shipping crates as possible wood sources. The down side to this is these can be dirty and you have a high risk of damaging your tools.

Hope this helps. If not directly, at least indirectly as it can lead to further discussion.

[Joy]

I am working with poplar now. It is not my favorite....but readily available and less costly. I taught myself to carve using cedar posts. It is not the best way....but it is workable. I have also used construction grade 2x4 building studs. where there is a will....there is a way.

You might also try carving some of that green wood you have. It carves much easier green.....then you can dry it in the microwave.....if it is a good result.
Joy

[Joy]

It has been a while since I dried any that way, but the trick is to do it slowly and cool it completely between heatings. So nuke it for 30 seconds and then cool it. Someone on the forum said they put it in the freezer to cool. Try searching "drying wood with a microwave" on this site and the internet.
Joy

[carver33]

Of the woods that you listed, poplar and black walnut may be about the easiest to work with. I obtained a good bit of poplar early in my carving career and found it to be not bad to carve. The grain will tear when cutting cross grain with less than sharp tools. Just about any wood is carveable with good, sharp tools.

My first carving was from a fallen apple limb (pic attached). It is a very hard wood, but takes detail extremely well. It took some time, but I persevered and was pretty pleased with the outcome

Bill (Aiken, SC)

[chuckbolton]

kevin- my advice it to find a local carving group-- in the states- where im at--some of us would have to travel 100 miles or so to find one- or go to a carving show. there will undoutbly be vendors there and you will get to see many types of carving. everyone has given good advice but its difficult to know for sure what to recommend as often the wood may be called by another name in another part of the world or like in the stats - another part of the country. there is atleast one carving magazine published in britan. and online in this forum there are folks from all over europe-- so im sure you can get some good advice there also.
glad you found the site and we will do whatever we can in order to help you.

[mdallensr]

Kevin., i"m having a problem with the price you quoted for limewood. A 2" x 2" x 6' piece of wood is two board feet (288 cubic inches). In the U.S., we can buy carving-grade basswood for as little as $2.50/board-foot to maybe $4.00/board-foot (depending on the source and the thickness), so that piece would cost us $5.00 to $8.00, equivalent to 3.40-5.45 British Pounds. The price you quoted for that piece is equivalent to $213.00 U.S., or more than $100/board-foot. I know the cost of living is higher in the U.K., but it can't be that much higher. Mike

[carver33]

Hello Kevin,

I don't know what you'ld call the style - 3D Cartoon, perhaps? I used to doodle and draw cartoons quite a bit and had a neighbor who was a caricature carver. He told me many times that if I could draw cartoons, I could carve. He finally gave me a knife that he'd made and got me to try it. The little elephant was my interpretation of one of my doodles.

Bill (Aiken, SC)