Wood grain direction?

[AlArchie]

Michelle, yes that would also be a good choice. In addition, if you look at the growth rings (grain lines) on the top of a block, they mau also run roughly into a SIDE such as side A/B. Where the rings run isn't important as long as you use the longer run of the rings for your "nose" or other tender parts.

I use the same idea when carving fins for fish. The grain will run in the same direction as the spines I will form from a thin piece of wood and the growth rings will make slight bends in the fins work without cracking. There are other instances where looking at both the top and side grain patterns can make a huge difference in strength and flexibility.

Glad I could help.

Al

[Robson Valley]

Wood is best described in three different points of view:
1. With a power saw, cut down a tree. The flat, exposed surface of the stump is called the transverse view (of the wood structure). Growth "rings" are easy to see.
2. Take an axe and slash a blaze mark on the face of a standing tree. That is the "tangential" view. Growth rings are practically impossible to see.
3. Split the log, from the outside to the center of the tree. That freshly exposed surface is different again, called the "radial view/surface." Growth rings are a little more easily seen than in tangential view.

Look at the Fin rays in my "Fish Door." That is a radial slab, like a skinny piece of pie and a long way from the top crust to the bottom. The front end of the fish piece was "up" in the log. The top edge of the fish piece was "in". The belly was "out". That makes the tail fin run down so the length-wise fiber of the slab made carving the fin rays really easy.

[USAGeorge]

Thank you for all the feedback,very helpfull. I figured out half the problem with my hand tiring out. The knife handle was to slim and the finish to smooth. I taped the handle to build it up,took a lot of tape but got a better grip without having to squeeze so hard. I took off the tape and wrapped the handle with leather lace and used CA glue. So much for using one knife,I can see why owning a few different grips makes a big difference. I left the leather rough and did a double wrap at the knife tip end,sort of a bump that allows me to grip it closer to the blade and get my thumb on the blade back while it is closer to my hand. Pretty happy with the results so I ordered a different knife by Shipley.
The other thing that helped was I watched several carving videos on You Tube and just watched the knife work. There was a post that I read that adressed the different in quality of basswood,tween northern and southere grown. I don't know what I got but it came from a site called Substainable lumber so I ordered some from a recommended supplier and will post after I get it and do a few carvings with it.

[pallin]

As a general rule, you have finer control with your hand muscles than the arm muscles - so it is better to use squeezing or paring cuts. This puts more stress on your hands, of course, but is probably safer than "arm power" cuts away from your body. But no technique is safe if you keep carving beyond the signs of weariness and fatigue. Take a break!