Wood for daily use/food contact?

[WoodWhittlinWayne]

Let me start off by saying that I like for my carvings to be used. I have found in the short time that I have been carving (2 months or so...) that I get more enjoyment when I can put the carvings to use, or when I see someone using what I have made then just seeing it sitting on a shelf. Consequently I have found myself carving more utilitarian objects than anything else. For example, I am working on replacing all of the plastic cooking utensils that are in the kitchen with wooden ones that I have carved.

So now to my question.... What type of wood is good for things that may be handled on a daily basis, and possibly come in contact with food? Such as in the kitchen utensils mentioned above. I know that there are some woods that can cause allergic reactions or that are even toxic to some degree. Other woods, such as Basswood, may not be able to stand up to the abuse of daily handling.

Right now I am using Yellow Poplar. Mainly because I have plenty of it to spare, it's more durable than basswood, and because I haven't seen it on any toxic wood charts that I have found. I'm curious as to what others are using. Any input would be appreciated!
Wayne

[Rustic Rick]

maple and walnut come to mind

[WoodWhittlinWayne]

Thanks for the suggestion Rick! I can get my hands on both of those. One thought though. I have heard that walnut may not be the best. Well, I have heard that you don't want to use it as animal bedding because it can be harmful. Something to do with the oils in the wood I think. So I was thinking it may not be good for spoons and such that were to be used... Any thoughts on that?

P.S. Sorry for the Wall-O-Text in the original post. Sometimes I ramble when I get tired.

Edit: Ohhh. Just had another thought. Maybe if I use a food safe finish on the wood then it won't matter what type of wood I use since it will be sealed. My original thought was for unfinished wood. Ideas anyone?

P.S.S. Looks like I ramble even when not tired... Dang! I can't use than excuse anymore! I guess I am just super excited about wood carving!

Wayne

[MackTheKnife]

Wayne, I use birch and poplar for my functional spoons. Birch is just a little harder than poplar, so I think it wears better. I also use butcher's block oil as a food-safe finish, although I'll sometimes use food-grade mineral oil. The butcher's block oil finish is a little more durable.

One caution about expecting a finish to seal-off any possible toxicity: finishes wear off, especially on functional items.

[Bob K.]

Just about any of the harder woods will work...Poplar is good...so is maple, walnut, cherry, even mahogany...I've been using mesquite lately but it's hard to come by. Just make sure your condition the carving well with a good food safe conditioner. I like Howard's Butcher Block Conditioner.

[Nomad]

Apple and pear are often used for utensils.

[Sharon of the Dell]

Wayne, if you can safely barbecue food with it, you can use it for a spoon. At least that's my thoughts.
I use local hardwoods such as manzanita, oak, madrone, tanoak (not a true oak), whatever we would cook meat with!

Go to the USDA plant data source, I think it's called, and search for wood either by the scientific name or common name. There will be a list of the characteristics and toxicity will be there.
Here's a link for tanoak as an example:

Conservation Plant Characteristics for ScientificName (CommonName) | USDA PLANTS

At the very bottom of the characteristics it says toxic- none.
Hope this helps.
You could also google wood for barbecue.

[Claude]

The woods I prefer for spoons, etc., all listed above, except for one. I use walnut, cherry, maple, and olive. As for the finish, since I use these on a daily basis to cook with, the only finish I put on them is extra virgin olive oil, and that's because I cook with the olive oil. Don't put them in a dishwasher - the elevated heat and steam is hard on the wood. Just wash in the sink with soap and water.

When I finish making a spoon, I lay it on a paper towel, and use another to apply the oil all over the spoon. I reapply about every half hour for 3 hours or so, basically when the oil no longer seems to soak in, I'll cover it with the oil-soaked towel overnight. A quick wipe in the morning, and it's ready for use.

If you're concerned about the olive oil, you could substitute food grade mineral oil (from the pharmacy), canola oil, safflower oil, etc.

Claude

[Sharon of the Dell]

I don't use mineral oil on my spoons.
I use a concoction of pure beeswax, walnut oil and salad oil/ olive oil. I melt it all in a glass jar in a double boiler. Some times I stick the spoons in the warm mix or just apply cold with a paper towel. I kind of do what Claude said as far as the soaked towel. I keep the mixture covered in the fridge so if i don't use it very quick, it won't go rancid.

[Claude]

Wayne:
Here's a tip that might help you...
When I finish carving my spoons, I sand them down using 220 grit, then 400, then 600. After finishing with the 600, I take them over to the sink and wet with running water. Then back to the work bench where I dry them with an old hair dryer. This raises the wood grain fibers and makes the spoon feel rough. I then re-sand all over with a piece of the used 600 grit paper. Then, back to sink to wet them, and back to the work bench to dry again with the hair dryer. Re-sand. After about 4 iterations of this, the dried spoon still feels smooth as a baby's bottom and has no more rough spots. Now is when I take it up and put the oil on it. The whole process of wetting, drying, sanding, for several times takes maybe 10 minutes, but it really makes a difference in the spoons.
After using for awhile, if the spoon develops a rough spot or two when dry, I just take it to the sink and give the rough spot a scrub with one of the little sponge/plastic pad scrubbys - usually smooths it again without actual sanding.

Claude