Sharpening - trying to learn how

[evasanta]

I just started carving and when my tools got dull I was stuck. I have experience as an artist, but woodcarving was new to me.
I tried books and online videos. Now I bought Everett Ellenwood's dvd and sharpening tools from him. I have diamond stones in coarse, fine, extra fine. White gold honing compound for use with cardboard, and a stone for the inside of v-tools. I will keep trying to watch the dvd but am frustrated trying to get the angles right. How long does it take to get the hang of sharpening? Is it just practice makes perfect? I believe Everett knows his business, I just haven't been able to get it right and have some questions about specific tools which are tricky for me to figure out how to get the angles or tips right. Anyone here who can help?

[edcornflake]

Eva,
I'm going through the same thing - just got some gouges that are so dull from the manufacturer that they're unuseable - If I figure out how to get them sharp this weekend, I'll post. I'm betting there are some folks on this board though that can help you much sooner than that. From what I've read - angle and consistency of angle are key (you don't want a double bevel). I have noticed that stopping every 15 - 20 minutes to strop helps hold an edge longer on my knife.

[Rustic Rick]

I have the same problem all I have are some stones 80,160 and 320. I was told that if you place the knife or gouge flat on the stone and then tip the blade until the cutting surface is fat on the stone that is the angle. I may be wrong but i hope that helps somewhat

[Dicky]

Some folks place a small piece of wood under the back edge of a blade to "lock" an angle or some instructions will say lift the back of the blade the same height as the thickness of a dime. The real answer is just practice at holding an angle. It will come to you. A quick look at "scary sharp" might give you a few pointers. For practice purposes, a knife from goodwill or dollar store will let you practice without risking your carving tools. Hope this helps.

[Robson Valley]

1. Get a protractor out of a kid's geometry set. On scrap (ply)wood, draw an angle of 20 degrees. That is to be the total included angle of the wood carving tool edge. Set it up on the 'off-side' of your stone or strop.
2. Tilt the tool accordingly. Lock you elbows to your sides and sway back and forth from your knees. Start with one corner of the gouge and roll it to the other corner during the pull-pass. Next stroke, start with that corner and roll back to the first corner.
3. TRICK: paint a bunch of strokes on the bevel face with permanent black felt pen. Look at it from time to time. That way, you can see exactly what's happening.
4. Insides: folded chunk of leather+honing compound = two passes out beyond the edge, keep it straight & flat.

[scooter]

It does take a lot of practice. Especially with V- and other oddly-shaped tools, getting a proper edge can be elusive.

If you can have someone who can demonstrate for you (in person), and walk you through the process, that can be helpful.

S~

[pallin]

Many of us learned on straight cutting edges like a bench chisel or plane blade. The key was to hold the tool so that the bevel never changed during the sharpening strokes. Study the edge in a strong light, especially when changing from one grit (coarseness) to another. After mastering the straight edges, including the knives, then transfer the techniques to curved edges (gouges) and V-tools.

[Robson Valley]

Leonard Lee (aka Lee Valley) sells a DVD with his book: "A Practical Guide To Sharpening."
I was taught the basics by a professional, full-time wood carver, Stuart Antonenko. I'm trying to pass that along (above).

Practice makes perfect: Get some tools that you aren't in love with (garage-sale chisels).
Get out your stones, the motor oil (I use Pennzoil and LOTS of it), paper towels and go to it.
Carpenters chisels should go 30 degrees, 40 if you plan to use them for knot-busters.
Kitchen knives no more than 15 degrees, total.

Believe this: the felt pen trick will teach you about as much as another person will.

[Robson Valley]

I made a "corral" for every one of my stones. Makes the process much easier.

Strip of scrap 1x4 or 1x6, several inches longer than the stone.
Glue 3 little strips for the sides and one end. The free end gets clamped to the bench.
The joke here is that all of mine are maple with rosewood edges. . . that was lying around!

[Tom Ellis]

Eva, Watch Everett's video, and follow right along with him, and you should have it mastered in no time. Most important is locking your wrist to maintain the proper angle. Also make sure that your fresh grind makes it all the way to the cutting edge, don't stop short. Watch for that wire edge, and then go to the strop.
Once you get them sharp, then it is mainly stropping until they get rounded over too much, and then back to the stones to start over.

Don't give up.......Carve sharp, carve safe, Tom