Sharpening new tools

[AnimalCarver]

Hi everyone, I just started the group a couple of weeks ago. My thread was "the most often tool used. I decided to get a set of flex-cut tools from someone through ebay. They posted that the tools were new, and they looked new, but I am curious about something. Something that I can't prove now, but wanted to get ya'lls take on it. I started with a block of wood I believed to be pine, that was left over from a post for my front porch. I did use a few of the tools on that piece of wood, but decided it was too hard, or harder than basswood anyway. lol

I stopped carving on it and decided to get some basswood this past weekend. Much easier. Though some of the tools "seemed" to be harder to cut through the wood than others. My question is: Would using the tools even for a short time on harder wood cause them to become more dull that fast? I want to believe that it would because I don't want to believe someone would sell me something saying it is new when they used some of the pieces. And I can't prove yes or no to it either. Also, what do I get to sharpen the tools with?

This is kind of off topic from what I just asked but is it less expensive to get a Dremel tool by itself, or with a kit with the accessories? It is much easier to cut with the basswood than with oak,as some of you had stated, thanks for the tip.
But I think I would also like to use the power tools along with the palm tools.
One of the projects I'd like to start off with if this helps answer is, I want to do a relief picture of an oak tree with leaves. Would this be better with power tool or with palm tools? Thanks again in advance, I really appreciate your help!
Blessings,Carolyn

[SlowMover]

I am not a relief carver, so I can't help you with that..good luck on it as I really admire relief scenes and want to learn it someday.

I only have experience with flexicut tools with my 11 piece set I got two years ago, and two additional gouges I got last fall. The original set was unbelievably sharp right off the bat, and I love them. I got two more gouges, a large veiner and a large v-tool..I don't know the size right off hand, but they are (I believe) the biggest ones they make. The V-tool was reasonably sharp, but the large veiner is still not up to the sharpness I want, no matter how I try to sharpen and/or hone it.The set was ordered from Robert Statlander, the additional gouges were purchased from a Woodcraft shop and were in the sealed packages from the factory. I don't know if it is a function of the larger size of my add-on tools,or what, but they sure weren't as sharp as the ones in the set.

I guess that there might just be a variation if the tools are hand honed at the end of production, depending on the person doing the honing and what kind of day they are having..I DO NOT know if they are in fact honed by hand..but that would be a reasonable explanation for the variance in sharpness you and I have experienced.

All that being said,I have several Pfiel gouges, and my 10mm v-tool was considerably less sharp than my other Pfiel tools...I don't think this is a unique problem/situation to flexcut.

Iam not sure this help you but it is my experience..for what it is worth.

[Ripton]

please define "new" when posted on eBay.. Sorry, I don't trust that purchasing option. As for a dremel. Look at what your going to use it for. most of the "kits" are fairly specific, e.g. polishing, cutting. Price out the various options a'la carte and the as the kit itself as long as they offer what you expect to need or use. I use a dremel but find dremel does not make very good power carving bits, so I buy them elsewhere. Perhaps some day I will graduate and invest in a dedicated power carver, but not until my skill advances to where I can really get my money worth out of it.

[Midnight Carver]

If you haven't tried it yet, you should definately take time to strop the tools, it can make a noticable difference. Everyone does things their own way, but I think you would find that quite a few people on this forum strop before they start carving then every 15-20 minutes while carving. Hope this helps

Eric

[Jesse_C]

I've always made it my practice to sharpen any new tools prior to using them. I have only been carving a little over two years now, but one of the first things that was emphasized to me was to have sharp tools. I was also told and found to be the case so far, new tools are not as sharp as they should be and I've had a few that took several sharpenings to get them to an acceptable level.
Just my two cents.

Jesse

[Donsexton]

You need to learn how to sharpen your tools anyway. I am an old dude and do things the old way I like a traditional Arkansas hard stone. You can buy a set of 3 stones in a holder at Lowes for around $15. If you have an old leather belt you can use it for a strop. Lowes will have stropping compound as well in 4 different grits you need the super fine.
The tools that you have are fine for carving what you want or anything small. You don’t need power to make beautiful carvings you can do the same thing with hand tools. Power tools will give you speed and if you are into this for the finish product go for it get you some power tools. That Dremel kit that you mentioned is fine it will have things that a carver will never use. If I were you, I would ask for a recommended carving bit list from our members they will get you on the right path.

[Robson Valley]

I have all sorts of sharpening and honing things.
I think that the most important item is a piece of wood that you like to work with. I call it my "try" stick aka a 24" x 1" x 4" piece of western red cedar. Try a cut. Strop the tool. Try another cut.
Think about the "feel" of the edge in the wood. Look at the chip. Look at the new surface.
If I strop my tools every 20-30 minutes, I don't even need to think about using the waterstones.

[sashadoc]

Sharpening is the most important skill used in woodcarving. Search above or check out YouTube using "woodcarving or sharpening". The sharpening tips will more than likely include stropping. Flex-cut tools that are already scary sharp just need to be stropped. As for the Dremmel tool, I agree with everybody here. The bits that come with it are mostly useless in carving. The only exceptions are the sanding drums. If you really want to know about carving bits check out this article, right here, on good ol' WCI. Have fun.

Tim
Woodcarving Illustrated - How To Magazine for Carvers - Choosing Power Carving Bits

[Whittled Thumb]

Donsexton, what department did you find the stropping compound in. When ever I go to Lowes I have trouble finding anything, and when ya ask, they are oblvious

[Whittled Thumb]

As for this post, just sharpen your knives, you are gona have to learn to do it anyway, may aswell learn now. I use sand paper but rarely have to sharpen them, most time I just strop the knives on leather