Sharpening for dummies!

Dennis Taylor · #1 09-23-2005, 03:58 PM

how about some input on this whole world of sharpening...being a beginner, just got my tools in the mail from Rick, I have yet a few more questions about the tools and sharpening:

1. I have read you only need to use a stone if there is a nick, and that you should be able to strop the tool to a keen edge, I assume that is either a knife or a gouge?

2. how long between strops is required to keep the edge you have?...1 hour/2hours, in soft wood?

3. I wouuld like to use sandpaper as a beginning point, can someone provide a step by step for the useage of sandpaper as the means to sharpen!...Once again is this necessary only if there is a nick in the tool edge?....SHOULD i BE ABLE TO STROP MY WAY TO SUCCESS!...

tks...Dennis

Ashbys · #2 09-23-2005, 04:22 PM

1) True depending on the size of the nick. But it is also possible to completely sharpen from a stone to the point of honing. On both knife or gouge.

2) Rule of thumb 20 _ 30 mins carving the knife or gouge should be honed or strop.

3) Sandpaper is easy to understand , but more difficult to master. Sand paper is simply put , measured grains of silcon carbide glued to paper. The size of the grain determinds the about of material removed over time.
So 100 grit course grain heavey cut.
150 grit is a good place to start on a chipped tool
220 grit next step
400 next
600 next
800 next
1200 should be final before strop.
Sand paper should be placed on a flat surface. Flat as in formica, steel or something to that nature. Using wood is not a good idea as it has a tendency to give and form a shape underneath. You want a solid flat surface.
For steel I would suggest emery cloth as it will not break down as fast and you can use water to keep the paper clear and the knife cool. Also the bonding agent is different than normal sand paper and is less effected by friction heat. The old rule of thumb for a 400 grit will give you an edge to start stroping with , but doing the step up of the paper is faster. 1200 will leave you a mirror edge, but will not remove the wire edge effect. That is the first reason for the strop.
On your knife count strokes, 10 one edge 10 the other and reduce the number as you go down , will help keep the knife balanced so the edge doesen't move to the side

Dennis Taylor · #3 09-23-2005, 04:53 PM

I guess my thinking is, if there is no nick, which I assume can only come from damage to the tip, not cutting the wood....and the stone is needed to remove the nick and get you back to the point of being able to strop the edge, if there is no nick, can you cut for the 30 mins, strop with the leather & compound, and go for another 30 , strop, another 30 strop, and on and on....do you need the sandpaper or stone, as long as there is no damage, or does the edge wear down from all the stropping to the point you have to go to a stone/sandpaper?

I seen a partial vhs on sharpening, and it seemed that the stone was being used because of damage to the tool, and the stone got the edge ready to strop, and I assumed over and over, until it hit the floor again?...

Hope this makes sense....Dennis

Hi_Ho_Sliver · #4 09-23-2005, 04:53 PM

actually you can use the scary sharp method to sharpen most of your knives and chisels...I use 400grit, 800, 1200 and 2000 and then go to the strop....if the blade is nicked bad you may have to go to coarser paper or a stone. I would suggest you look at the tutorial on Ricks site, plus do a google search, there are many step by step tutorials on how to sharpen. As to the amount of time between stropping, you will figure that out as you go, you will notice the knife not cutting as smoothly as it was and thats when you strop, there is no set time, it all depends on how you use the knife, the kind of wood and quality, the quality of the metal in the knife...etc etc, lots of variables, even and including the kind of strop and compound...remember this carving business really doesn't have much written in stone, there are many ways to skin a cat and each seem to have their own preferable way of doing things....you will find your preferred way soon too!

Ashbys · #5 09-23-2005, 04:59 PM

Yep Dennis ,

and that is basically correct , You can strop untill there is nothing left. Hi- Ho said it , many ways to do the job, and different woods will strop more than others, some you can cut an entire piece without ever hitting the strop. Stropping stoning , using a grinder or sand paper all have one function , to remove steel. Over time this shows on your tools.

Ash

Dennis Taylor · #6 09-23-2005, 05:13 PM

So if I understand correctly, if I take the leather strop and use it on my knife, which how often depends on the wood I am cutting, but treat it nicely, and don't allow it to fall or become damaged, then there is no need to own a stone or sandpaper....is this correct!

I understand the strop with compound will polish the metal, but when does it become necessary to own the stone, only when the tool edge is damaged?

Dennis

Ashbys · #7 09-23-2005, 05:24 PM

In theory yes. But in real life you will find yourself looking to scary sharpen them again over time. Besides as you strop your angles will slightly decrease , so althought it is still sharp the blade width will need to be reduced. As least if I remember correctly.

Ash

Dennis Taylor · #8 09-23-2005, 05:28 PM

So as a beginner, just starting off, the tools I got a Real Sharp, and if sandpaper to sharpen is hard to master, what is my options?....if I choose a water stone, in a combo, what grits do you need....with the sandpaper sounded to me like you had to work from about 150 to 1200 grit, I figure one combo stone isn't the answer either then!....if 150 is used to fix damage, what stone or method is used to keep the tool edge sharp?....

I had a real struggle with sharpening my turning tools, but with a jig, I can now...but not freehand...trying to figure out the knife and small gouges, all input is appreciated...and tks...Dennis

wade clark · #9 09-23-2005, 05:56 PM

I think 150 would be very aggressive and do more damage to your edge than anything, unless you've really got a mess on your hands like an old pitted tool. Then don't use 150, send it to Rick and get it done for $2 plus shpg!
Wade

Ashbys · #10 09-23-2005, 06:04 PM

Dennis,

Not every time you sharpen , using sand paper would you be working from 150 - 2000 grit. That would depnd upon the tool and what has happened to it. You might decide to start at 800 grit because it is still cutting , but not as eaisly. Or you just might use the 2K grit and strop.

I use a single soft and a hard arkansas stone if the tools are not damaged to bring it back to the strop. I do not often have to use them depending upon what I have been cutting. If I have been working hard dry walnut or maple I strop alot. If I am using pine I might not need it except for once or twice. Ricks tools are as you said sharp, to maintain them for week- months a strop should serve you well.

You will gain much more knowledge once you start using them, if the wood pulls instead of cutting , the knife needs sharpened. If it drags without the cut being too deep, it needs sharpened. These are things you have to decide. As you gain experenice you will gain more knowledge of the right points. And sharpness is a mater of opinion. There is sharp, slightly sharp , very sharp, extreamly sharp, scary sharp , ungodly sharp ... ect.