Sandpaper or Scraper?

Ayden · #1 03-09-2006, 12:20 PM

Hi everyone,

I'm finishing up my first ever carving project. It is a native New Zealand club called a Patu.

It has a relief carved area in the shape of a Silver Fern tree called a Koru that represents to native Maori new life and growth. The club looks almost tear drop shaped and is only an 1" think w/ a edges shaved to semi-pointed edge using a Flexcut carving knife.

I want to remove all the cutting markings etc and figured sanding will do the job and I'm sure it will. When I searched Woodcraft.com (there's a store close to me) I learned a bit about cabinet scrapers.

I'm thinking about buying a 3 piece set but I'm wondering if I'm wasting my time and should stick w/ sandpaper.

I'd like to have a smooth surface and the article I read claims a scraper gives a superior finish.

The piece I'm working on is not detailed but has simple curve and spiral details carved some what deep into the wood that I want to clean up and smooth the edges as well.

On the surface it seems the scraper makes quick work of smoothing out a piece over sandpaper and does not leave grit/sand lines.

Would love to hear your feedback.

Thanks always,

Ayden

BobD · #2 03-09-2006, 12:27 PM

Ayden,
What kind of wood is it carved out of? Hardwoods, such as cherry, maple, etc. look AWSOME with a scraper finish, but softer woods, such as pine and basswood don't really take to scraping very well.

As a side note, using a scraper does take a bit of practice (to square the edge, burnish the edge, and bend and hold at the right angle to cut properly). You will also need a burnisher...

A little explanation:

Scrapers work buy creating a wire edge or burr on one side of the edge. This wire edge is the cutting surface--it's basically a micro plane or knife. With a little practice, you can turn the edge over (called burnishing) quickly and with a lot of control (a larger wire edge will cut faster, but give you a rougher surface, a smaller wire edge will cut slower but give you a smoother surface).

If this is your first project with a scraper, I would suggest sticking with sandpaper. If you go up to 300 grit with the sandpaper, and apply a wax finish with a piece of synthetic steel wool, you should get a very nice finish.

Bob

Ayden · #3 03-09-2006, 12:37 PM

Thanks Bob, I only started last week and I really appreciate the helpful advice.

The wood is Poplar and very soft. I will definately stick w/ sandpaper and note the grit and wool you've recommended. As I progress further w/ my carving I will come back for finishing help.

As I said earlier I have flat tear drop circumference I'll be sanding, would you be able to recommend any special sanding blocks or even abrasive sponges to use for the edges?

I also have some curved and spiraled relief details that need smoothing and I'm thinking an emery board may work well.

I'm going to Woodcraft today to buy a spokeshave and thumb protector and would like to get as much as I can in one stop.

Look forward to hearing back from you and others.

Regards,

Ayden

BobD · #4 03-09-2006, 12:43 PM

Woodcraft sells these little holders for tiny bands of sandpaper. they are tapered on one end and rounded on the other--they are wonderful for sanding little details (if you are looking to buy new tools). But I've used my share of emery boards as well.

As far as a sanding block, in most cases you will not want one--hand pressure on a rounded surface like your have is probably best. Take your time and don't get impatient.

Sanding sponges work as well, but I don't use them because they load up too fast. You could use them as a block with sandpaper wrapped around them, I suppose...but I do most of my sanding without a block (Unless I'm trying to make a true and flat surface).

Poplar is going to be interesting for you because it tends to "fuzz up" a bit when sanded. Use caution and don't skip sandpaper grits too much (80 to 120 to 180 to 220 to 300). If you don't have much to sand off, you can go with 100 grit instead of 80.

Use caution when sanding with the coarse grits--that is where you can really change the shape of your carving. At 180 grit, you can't do much damage.

Bob

Hugh · #5 03-09-2006, 05:35 PM

Another two cents worth. Couldn't agree more with what Bob has said. After the initial sanding with the coarse grit, a light spraying of denatured alcohol will raise the grain, and help remove the fuzzies of the poplar. If your not going to stain it, a coat of super glue,after the sanding is finished, and then sand with real fine sandpaper again, will give you a hard smooth finish also. After this is all said and done, try rubbing the whole thing with the heel of your hand. Your hide is a good, fine abrasive.

Ayden · #6 03-09-2006, 05:37 PM

Hi Bob, everyone,

I don't mean to sound cheap as I really am but Woodcraft sells a set of 10 mixed set of sanding abrasive pads of various surface types.

I'm thinking this would work for me as the advertisement states the pads are excellent for rough to very fine sanding jobs. The only problem is it does not list comparative grits like you mentioned.

Would appreciate any feedback as I need more compelling reason's to buy 5 sets of 80/120/180/220/300 sand paper. As I'm writing I'm thinking I could never escape buying sand paper, pads, emery boards, and sand paper sticks in the end anyway.

Oh well, more feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks always,

Ayden

Hi_Ho_Sliver · #7 03-09-2006, 06:48 PM

this is a flexdrum sander I made up, motor was free from a local heating/AC shop, sander kit was 35.00 with a couple of drums...works great on sticks.

as for the treatment of the wood, I suggest sanding sealer....works great ...I use the minwax..imho

Ayden · #8 03-09-2006, 08:24 PM

Thanks Silver,

I'm thinking about getting the drum sander bits from Woodcraft but that wont be for a little bit yet.

I'm still learning to shape and carve pieces for now so I'll probably pick things up in stages and as I need them.

Regards,

Ayden

Ayden · #9 03-09-2006, 08:25 PM

Thanks for the tips Hugh, especially the hand rub idea, it's probably what my Maori ancestors used years ago.

Take care,

Ayden

BobD · #10 03-10-2006, 08:29 AM

As far as sandpaper goes, most big box retailers carry variety packs (assorted grits) up to 220 grit for about $5--then you would only need to buy a pack of 300 grit.

I keep coming back to sandpaper because it's going to be useful no matter what you do. You can make custom sanding blocks, roll it into little donuts, attach it to small sanding sticks...it's very flexible.

I've gotten the sanding sponges before, and found that they don't go up to a high enough grit. And once they clog up (like they will with poplar) they are trash. If you clog up the sandpaper, you throw it away, and it's not a bit expense...

The only thing I like those sanding sponges for is to remove surface rust from tools, etc.

By the way, the easiest way to make a custom sanding block is to put plastic wrap over the piece you want to sand and cover it with automotive body repair putty. When the putty is dry, pull off the plastic wrap, and you have an exact sanding block for the profile.

Bob