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Wood Carving for Beginners | |||
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#1
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This weekend I started my first caricature and the only tool I have at this point is a straight blade from Woodcraft. I'm carving basswood. It's coming along fine, other than the 5 wounds and 2 pint blood loss, but my question has to do with what I call depth cuts. Expression lines, eyes, eyelids, mouths, etc... I'm struggling getting a sharp edge at the ends of the cuts. I'm using two, three, maybe more cuts to get where I want to be, but I'm left with fuzzy wood remnants at the ends. I have a gouge lined up and a v-cut tool, but don't have them yet. Is there something simple I should be doing differently? Or is it just a case of trial and error. Love this board and am fired up with my new hobby. Thanks in advance.
__________________ Bob Rivet My Blog: http://timberwolfwoodcarvings.blogspot.com/ My Carvings: http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...ame/timberwolf |
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#2
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Welcome to the forum, Bob. First things first. If you're not using a carving glove and thumb protection, I'd highly recommend them. I found that my carving skill is diminished after massive blood loss. Also, it's difficult to remove those bloodstains from the wood. As a relative newcomer (I've been carving off and on since last November), "fuzzy wood remnants" is something I continue to struggle with. I think all beginning carvers encounter this problem. For me, the solution has been a sharper knife and more experience. In particular, frequent stropping of the blade helps tremendously.
__________________ Jim My carving blog posts I've never sold a carving, but I've collected a fortune in smiles. |
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#3
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Thanks Jim, Info gleaned from this site today will have me procuring a kevlar glove and leather thumb protector on the way home from work. Perusing this site today has answered a lot of my questions already. I just started carving Saturday, so I'm sure they'll be boatloads more of new questions. Thanks again!
__________________ Bob Rivet My Blog: http://timberwolfwoodcarvings.blogspot.com/ My Carvings: http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...ame/timberwolf |
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#4
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jim pretty much covered it most fuzzies come from dull tools some woods will fuzz more than others, but if you are using good northern basswood try to get your knife a little shaper, the cuts should be clean and shiny
__________________ A FAILED ATTEMPT SHOULD NOT DISCOURAGE BUT ENCOURAGE-big daveVIEW MY WCI GALLERY http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...0/ppuser/13964 |
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#5
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When I first experienced this problem and hadn't mastered sharpening, I found I could clean out the corners neatly with a #11 Exacto blade. It gets into tight spots and is easily stropped to a razor edge
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#6
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Bob: Your tools must be kept sharp, very sharp to make clean smooth cuts. As someone already said, dull tools result in fuzzy cuts. Learn to get a very sharp edge and watch your carving become much more fun.
__________________ Ed |
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#7
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Not being critical, but just passing on the lessons I and others have learned the hard way. By the sounds of it (your wounds), chances are your knife might not be sharp (and having heard others receiving tools not quite sharpened from Woodcraft and other vendors--even when requested to be sharpened. If you can slice through the end grain of a piece of wood, and leave such a clean cut that you can see the grain lines, than your knife is sharp. It it rips, or is not a clear cut, you need to sharpen the tool. Also, strop often so the tool's edge will stay sharp when using--maybe every 30 minutes of use is a good rule of thumb. Also, you might not have so many cuts if you sharpen it. If it is sharp, you won't be applying so much pressure (and you shouldn't be) behind the tool. Use a glove. Regardless whether you use a glove or not, look in the direction of where the knife is going. Is any part of your hand in the area? That's what could end up getting "carved". So, if you can move your hand/finger, you might save yourself from getting hurt. Even with a glove, the glove will not stop the point of a tool from piercing its weave. So, it's important to pay attention to what you and your tools are doing--and to be alert. If you're tired, put the carving away for another time when you are fresh and more alert. Hope this helps. Bob L |
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#8
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Welcome to the forum, Bob. You've already got some good advice, so I will just add that Tom H and Thomp (both members here) have a real good blog going where they give tips on how to use a knife and offer mentoring for us beginners. To get to it, just click here. Ed
__________________ Ed Hulett Making big pieces into little pieces... ![]() http://edsscrollsawbits.blogspot.com/ http://woodcarvingnsuch.wordpress.com http://www.facebook.com/ed.hulett http://www.twitter.com/yaesu |
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#9
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I'll throw in my two bits and start by agreeing with everyone else. When carvers talk about sharp tools they are describing a different kind of sharp than what most of the world finds acceptable. It will take you a while to get to the freakishly sharp point you need in your tools. As a test take a piece of scrap and cut a slice of end grain. A sharp tool will slice this cleanly and leave a polished cut. If there are any torn fibers or what looks like scratches in the cut then you tool is not sharp. There are any number of ways to sharpen your tools the important thing to remember is that for the most part they all work. They all take time and practice. Good luck, Dan |
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#10
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Just another tip... you will notice that the best knives will have a mirror finish on the blade. That is not from chrome plating, but from stropping the blade to that high polish. The cutting edge is sharpened so fine that it will slice across the grain and not leave any fuzzies. The polish also helps the blade cut into the wood without friction. You also do not want a bevel. The sides should be flat. Ed
__________________ Ed Hulett Making big pieces into little pieces... ![]() http://edsscrollsawbits.blogspot.com/ http://woodcarvingnsuch.wordpress.com http://www.facebook.com/ed.hulett http://www.twitter.com/yaesu |
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