[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

some day maybe I will figure how how to build one and make one about 1/2 the size of a regular drawknife......always thought one of those would be very handy!

[Scott]

When spring steel is too hard it chips going through knots. Most spring steel is a little high in carbon for knives so tempering to at least a straw is pretty important.
Differentially temper. Harden the whole tool then turn the whole tool a light straw colour . Turn the handle tangs blue starting at their ends and blend in the spine to a dark straw. This way you have a tough tool with a hard edge. I have an old gas stove that works great for tempering.

Try the knife out without putting on handles. Be merciless going through knots. If it chips, temper again and put a little more darkness into the straw. This way you'll get the right temper.

The slicks I make can be used as spuds of course but they really show their merit on shaping wood and carving. They are razor sharp.
Most commercial log home builders around here work with dry logs so they need a sharp edge that holds.

,
Scott

http://www.caribooblades.com

[cats pa]

Originally Posted by Scott

Differentially temper. Harden the whole tool then turn the whole tool a light straw colour . Turn the handle tangs blue starting at their ends and blend in the spine to a dark straw. This way you have a tough tool with a hard edge. I have an old gas stove that works great for tempering.

Yeah, I've done that on knives and chisels before, but with a torch. Good idea.

The slicks I make can be used as spuds of course but they really show their merit on shaping wood and carving. They are razor sharp.
Most commercial log home builders around here work with dry logs so they need a sharp edge that holds.

There's nothing wrong with using a slick as a spud, especially if the cutting edge is rockered a little (or a lot, as in your examples). But on my crew, usually it's the newest helper doing the bulk of the peeling and I give him a spud first to see how he handles it. He can use a razor sharp slick when he shows me 1) he won't cut himself to ribbons, and 2) he won't run the edge into the rocks, dirt, etc.

Different story if he shows up with a razor-sharp slick...

Parker

[foppiodan]

Hmmm, a bark spud. WHy didn't i think of that. I just used a hatchet to removed the bark from a 6.5' x 3'diameter log I'll be working on. Only took me 10 hours and a half dozen bandaids. I'll get one of these jewels next time. Great idea, Thanks

[Scott]

This is a nice little draw knife for peeling and shaping timbers.
It's 15" overall with a 5" edge handforged from 5/16" L6 steel.

Scott
For larger woodworking tools

[cats pa]

Originally Posted by foppiodan

Hmmm, a bark spud. WHy didn't i think of that.

If you go here,

Tool For Removing Bark

you'll see a simple one that I made for Kathy a while ago. In my hillbilly opinion, they're easier to make than to buy.

Parker

[GardenGnome]

Hey, Scott. I never thanked you for pointing me in the direction of I Forge Iron. With the help of those guys I now have my forge up and working. I'm using wood for heat because I can't get coal hear easily. Once the cold weather is passed I will be out at the forge again.



Chisels, knives and other tools are in my plans now. As well as some gardening tools too.

Thanks again for pointing that out to me. It made a huge difference.

Christopher

[Scott]

Here is a link to making your own charcoal.

charcoal .There are other more efficient methods and variations but this is a good start.. Search making charcoal.

A knifemaker, Tim Lively, has designed a simple, portable and very effective charcoal forge. It reaches welding temperatures.
Forge design

,
Scott

[rakau]

Hiya..When I was working, I made several large gouges from
the outer casings of worn out ball races,the works blacksmith
would re-temper the finished article,these were all ''one offs''
made for a specific job.

Jack