remove bark from logs

Scott · #11 09-24-2006, 08:41 PM

Good tutorial on how to make a small drawknife. When you make a draw knife from a vehicle spring the process is simpler and heavier.

Irishman · #12 09-24-2006, 08:49 PM

Feb - I typically don't remove the bark unless its very loose or starting to fall off in places. Would love to have one of those draw knifes I see carvers posting. As for Native carvings and mountain men, I get my inspiration from the carvers on this site. Try the search mode on the message board or gallery and type in what your looking for. As well, many of the carvers have their own sites with amazing carvings for references. The latest mountain man I did was based on reference photos of carvers on this message board.
Patrick

jdeibel · #13 12-25-2007, 03:04 PM

I just happened on a quick and easy method of removing bark from cedar logs. I have a4.5 in. angle grinder and fitted it with a sanding disk, medium grit. It works great, with practically no effort.

Hi_Ho_Sliver · #14 12-25-2007, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdeibel

I just happened on a quick and easy method of removing bark from cedar logs. I have a4.5 in. angle grinder and fitted it with a sanding disk, medium grit. It works great, with practically no effort.

Trouble with that, you eat a lot of dust! and the noise! 90% of the time, I just use a drawknife. Hope you wear a mask?

Capt. Bandaid · #15 12-26-2007, 01:13 PM

I also used a coarse grit sanding disk, something like 40 or 60 grit. Yep, it takes it all off and flings it all over the place. The noise and the dust and the mess led me back to the drawknife. Quieter, less mess, no dust and very good for the soul. It is a lot like whittling a stick.

Scott · #16 12-27-2007, 01:14 PM

Cedar dust is irritating stuff for sure.
My partner puffs up like a chipmunk. A loghome builder friend gets the symptoms of a bad cold even with a mask.

Everyone I know that works big works with a chainsaw and carving bar and a grinder with grit or a lancelot when they need to. Still one of their favorite knives is a drawknife.
A drawknife is efficient and makes beautiful marks without the fuss.

Scott.

Irishman · #17 12-27-2007, 02:10 PM

Wow! Now that is a draw knife. Very nice Scott. I have since picked up an old draw knife at a flea market. I also use it to rough out my Greenland paddles. I much prefer this tool than my carving disk on the grinder.
Patrick

Hi_Ho_Sliver · #18 12-27-2007, 02:29 PM

You make some fine looking tools Scott!

tcb16 · #19 12-30-2007, 01:40 PM

Hi FEB,

What kind of wood are you debarking? I've had success using all the tools listed above. I've also had a lot of success with an axe or a hatchet, depending on the size of the log. Best of Luck!

Tim

cats pa · #20 12-30-2007, 02:09 PM

Scott, your spuds are a lot prettier than the one I made quick for Kathy. I've built log houses too, and I never saw the need for spring steel in a spud. I made mine out of galvanized plumbing pipe (quick and dirty, git-r-done, especially when peeling summer cut cedar logs). I didn't even make the edge very sharp. But if I was going to peel a lot, your wood handles would be a lot easier on the hands. Good work there. Very nice drawknife, too, but you left your glasses on the log.

Christopher, if I were you, I'd plan on tempering my spud/drawknife/samurai sword after quenching, drawing down some of the hardness and increasing the toughness, or impact resistance. When spring steel is quenched it becomes brittle, and if you were to drop it on concrete, for example, it would likely fracture. Tempering involves heating it again, but not as hot, until you see the color oxides. Maybe straw would be right, depending on the steel, for a drawknife - I'd go to purple or blue for a spud.

Parker