Power Carving

[RogerC]

I have an old Foredom Series CC flex shaft unit but only have a few steel and abrasive bits for it. Can someone provide me some guidance on all the new carving burrs and points such as: A. Diamond B. Kutzall C. Carbide Stump D. Ruby, etc. I am just a beginner carver.

[wade clark]

Roger,
Welcome!
I have a few of the Kutzall burrs and they're very impressive wood eaters! They can be burnt clean with a torch if they clog too. Home Depot and all the woodcarving catalogs sell them, including Woodcraft Supply.
I'd suggest getting 2 or 3 assorted ones to start. I don't think you can wear them out.
Be careful...they eat hands better than wood...I have a nice scar to prove it! I'd have two but I was wearing a glove the second time!
Have fun!
Wade

[BobD]

Roger,

I was trying out the new SR this weekend. The new kit comes wiht a variety of bits...I really like the typhoon, but Wade has it right--I ran one over a fingernail lightly (accidentally of course) and have a nice-sized groove!

I was also impressed wiht the new 3M bristle disks--they come in different grits--some are aggressive enough to carve wiht, but the fine ones work great for removing fuzzies without touching the details!

Bob Duncan
Wood Carving Illustrated

[Mike Schwing]

People develop personal preferences for rotary bits, and I'm no exception to that rule. For general carving, I don't think you can bet the Kutzall carbide bits. They're the ones with the seemingly random pointy carbide bits placed all around. I find the ball shaped bits by far to be the most versatile. Other folks prefer the typhoon bits, same principle but in a more organized arrangement of burrs. I find them to clog more easily. These types of bits will remove wood rapidly but create lots of dust in the air.

The carbide cutting burs, with cutting "blades" as opposed to teeth, or steel burrs for that matter, create larger, heavier shavings and do not fill the air with so much dust. They however, are more sensitive to grain direction, and they do dull and are not that easy to sharpen. They also leave a clean cut surface.

For detail work I prefer cutters to the kutzall or typhoon type of bit. The ceramic texturing stones (think of hair texture as opposed to eggshell texture) are very useful for adding extreme detail but not so for shaping. They can also be used for finishing/sanding.

Diamond coated bits are very useful for shaping, and are more durable than ruby stones, but I really like my ruby bits. They are more aggressive than diamond but can stand less heat. Neither should be treated as roughly as can real cutting bits.

Though I have a hundred or more bits I probably rely on less than a dozen for all of my work.

Typically I will work with the kutzall type first, then the carbide cutters/burrs to add detail, then diamond or ruby for final shaping/tool mark removal, then ceramic type stones for final texturing and or/smoothing. Hope this helps!

[Hugh]

Hi Mike, I was already to put my two cents worth in, in support of the Typhoon bits. I've used them almost exclusively for quite a long time. But after reading your post, I would like to know the carbide cutters, that your using. They sound like there worth trying. Cheers

[Mike Schwing]

Originally Posted by Hugh

Hi Mike, I was already to put my two cents worth in, in support of the Typhoon bits. I've used them almost exclusively for quite a long time. But after reading your post, I would like to know the carbide cutters, that your using. They sound like there worth trying. [img]images/smilies/food-smiley-004%5B1%5D.gif[/img]

Hugh, I hope I haven't confused things, but assume you're not talking about the Kutzall burs. I like to group the kutzall and typhoon bits in the same category - pointy little carbide bits arranged on a head. The other ones are the more traditional cutting bits such as this "monster 5/8" flame bit w/ 1/4" shank" from woodcarvingsupply.com



Sorry if I made it sound more exciting than it is. These are wonderful bits.

[squbrigg]

Welcome aboard Roger. I use my Foredom quite a bit, and have most luck with two types of burrs....the Kutzall burrs and diamonds. The Kutzalls are in three grits: blue, silver and gold (coarse/very aggressive, medium/aggressive, gold/smoother) and the diamonds for smoothing and fine work. I keep one of each in the six basic shapes and a basic set of 12 diamonds. I have a few metal cutting burrs and use them in only specific situations. I suppose it really depends on what type of carving you will be doing , and each person will have their own favorites. Those are mine. Good luck.

Bob

[Hugh]

Ok, I have that one, just thought I was missing out . Thanks Mike Wink

[Callynne]

Roger, I use Typhoon Rough Out Burs a lot, for just that, roughing my carving out closer to hand carving shape. I really, really like them. When I have all my hand carving done I use Ruby Carvers for detailing and cleaning up in tight places.

A good person to help with your selections is Wayne at MDI Woodcarvers, do you have their catalog? The website is www.mdiwoodcarvers.com Wayne has (and continues to) help me out with my selections. He's great at advising me, not just selling me what ever I think I need!

I suggest wearing a leather glove on your holding hand, I too, learned the hard way! I also always wear a thumb guard, since I often change how I carve on a piece and end up moving the burr towards my thumb. You'll find, the longer you carve, that wood has places where it just shoots the handpiece away from the wood wherever the heck it wants to go...which is usually where your exposed skin is!!

Good luck, have fun, ask us all the questions you need to, someone will surely have an answer for you! Callynne

P.S. Oh yes, and you should be wearing eye protection, a dust mask and running a dust collector too!

[Kenny_S]

To go along with Wade's post, there is a product called Pitch, manufactor escapes me at the moment. Soaked in this product and the burrs clean up nicely.