OCD's tool choice and follow up question

[ocd]

Well, I motored on down to Woodcraft (wifezilla safely at home), thank you all so much for you advice, the internet is a wonderful thing. I got a bunch, I mean probably have 30 Pfeil (3 full size) palm carving tools (I won't call them all chisels, I been doing some reading, see).

I liked the rack that came with two sets so much that I built another one for my other Pfeils and and working on a walnut larger rack for my L-N and full size Pfeils and some Irwins. So easy to get detoured in shop-land, isn't it?

I got Chris Pye's book, volume I, I guess and was very disheartened (drama here) to learn that to "hollow ground" on my Tormek is not good. I bought the SVS-32 (cheapest thing ever from Woodcraft) jig. But I don't want to screw up my new carving tools, I guess I'll have to find a way to sharpen them "sideways", if you will. What to do?

I also have the Veritas stone pond with King stones-one rough, one fine, and a nice set off Shapton stones, 8K and 16K (I know, overkill, but I am "ocd", ok?). In addition I have a, I believe it's called a stone gouge sharpener, and a set of small, the four in a leather case fits in your pocket Spiderco dry (slip?) stones, and the stropping set up for FlexCut.

I'm very familiar with the wire edge phenomena. Never used the more esoteric "line of light". I'm one of those Neanderthals that gets perverse pleasure from shaving the hair off my left forearm.

So, will my SVS-32 jig on the Tormek work, or will the muse of woodcarving abandon me and curse all my efforts?

And, not to detract from the aforementioned dilemma, but it seems like Pfeil doesn't really use the Sheffield system exactly, ie, their #7s are really #6s in the Sheffield system.

AND, is Chris Pye's volume II as informative as I?

I have always found woodworkers on the internet super helpful and friendly. Thanks again for helping me out.

OCD

[Plain_Ol_Ed]

Me thinks the wheels on the Tormek are large enough and the area of bevel on your tools are small enough to the "hollow ground" thing won't be a bother. There are a number of folks that use the Tormek with good results. I can't speak to the jig, have not heard any comments on it (at least that I remember). I wouldn't know about any of that first hand, I'm old fashioned and use stones.

[xsailer]

I've used the SVS-32 several times now and it works fine. I bought it thinking that was the accessory for larger/intermediate gouges and found it's not. I just ordered and haven't got yet the SVS-50. It was confusing to me just which tools it sharpened but I understand now, I think. It's suppose to handle the larger gouges, I hope. I hate having to buy these damn accessories! I really need the diamond true device. I noticed at our local tool store that handles JET tools that their sharpener, a take of Tormek, use the same arrangement and cheaper. I want to take my Tormek measurments there and chk the fit.

[CarverFromNoWhere]

I have both of Chris Pyes books they are both awesome books I feel they are the best books on the subject of carving written. Way off on the hollow or Scandinavian grind being bad I use that on all my tools and with the Tormek it is so shallow it's hardly noticeable. Tormek has a 10" stone most dry bench grinder are 6". Most of the concern in the hollow grind is it makes the tools weak because of the convex shape the bevel receives, well this shape also makes the tools more useful and sharper. With a flat bevel the whole bevel will contact the wood while cutting, with the hollow only the tip and back touch the wood causing less friction and leaving a finer finish from the cuts.

Xsailer I have checked out Jets knock off and most of the Tormek jigs fit who would have guessed .

Sounds like you have got yourself a nice set up, if I had the money I would have a full set of Pfeil or maybe the high end Lamp.

As for the jig I would have to look at mine I don't know them by the proper name but I have every one except the molder knife jig I don't have a molder LOL. In my opinion a hollow grind is the way to go and the Tormek is the perfect machine. If you want I will post a picture of a special gouge I made from an extra flexcut which I sharpened on my Tormek with fantastic results.
Carl

[xsailer]

C/T FN, do you know if the guide bar is the same diameter?

[CarverFromNoWhere]

Are you wanting to put Jet stuff onto the Tormek? I didn't try that, I did try the Tormek onto the Jet and they seemed to fit fine.
Carl

[xsailer]

Yes, Jet on Tormek. I was looking at several attmts that slide on the, what I call the tool guide bar.

[CarverFromNoWhere]

Tormek fit the Jet, not sure about the other way around you would have to try. I only get down to the closest woodcraft about twice a year or I would check, But I would just spend the extra just to have the Tormek over the Jet. That bar has a name of some kind, I just call it that bar thing LOL. AT least when you buy Tormek you know your buying a quality product that is well backed up with great ech and customer service along with well upkept warrenty policies, they are very nice to deal with and it seems almost like they are ashamed if one of their products fails or breaks.
Carl

[Plain_Ol_Ed]

I'm confused

[ocd]

I read a comparison of the Jet and Tormek. Fine Woodworking said the Jet tended to bog down easier, the motor has less torque(?). Also, the inset plastic rings and whatnot that contact the "bar" are prone to slip out on the Jet jigs.

One loudmouth at Woodcraft last weekend declared that he uses the Jet and it works fine, but buys Tormek jigs. I wanted to ask him a few questions about his logic, but thought better of it.

My Tormek is a 2000. Since Jet came out with a nice lower priced machine, Tormek has renamed their 2000 the T7, and now have a smaller machine with, I believe, an 8 1/2" wheel called the T3-has a plastic housing, not metal like the T7.

Before Jet came out with their machine, the truing tool with the diamond stud thing of Tormek's was useless, really. There was no "lock down" so that you could truly direct the diamond stud cutter straight flush across the wheel; it was all "free hand". My metal worker friend made me a large tray, more or less, that fit on both bars (I manually pushed it across the face of the stone) and housed the diamond stud thing in it, worked great. But, finally, Tormek felt threatened and developed a valid truing tool that does work great.

It's incredible, sometimes I've read in woodworking forums and magazines that folks can just get a cinder block and true up that flat bench stone....

My Dad was a patternmaker, and put all the razor sharp edges on his tools free hand. It's a shame that CAD put an end to patternmaking; I'm glad I didn't follow his vocation. Sadly, I don't have any of his tools except a scratch awl.

Question: Do I read Chris Pye correctly when he says all that's needed once you get a good bevel/edge on a tool is to strop it only? Once accurately tuned and sharp, carving tools can be kept that way by just stropping?