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Wood Carving for Beginners | |||
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#1
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Hi folks been carving for 25 years off and on (relief) but now plan on getting serious so........ I just received my new set of Pfeil tools. Wow they are awesome! I have used the same set for 20 years (old Speedball set), never really understood how dull they were. I have ordered sand paper (800, 1200, 2000 grit)and I order a strop. I have never used a strop before (shows how ignorant I am :>) I have been reading threads here and it seems like you use the polishing agent on the rough leather and you simply pull the tool over it 10-20 times per side. Then switch to the smooth leather and repeate. Do I have it right? The Pfeil tools are really sharp so I do not plan on using the 2000 grit paper, just the strop every hour or two... Right? Thanks for your help |
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#2
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Not usually every hour or too....usually about every 10 to 15 minutes for me.....you can feel when its not cutting like it should....if its not cutting well, strop it and notice the difference, won't take long before you can tell when it needs it. as for compound side and smooth side of leather...don't know about that, both sides of mine are roughout and both have compound...I actually strop each side about 6 or 8 times and back to carving.
__________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/daviddunlap |
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#3
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Hi_Ho is right about the intervals. If the tool is cutting well, it will not take but a few strokes to keep it in good shape. Keep it off the paper unless it gets a scratch (or worse).
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#4
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Do I need to be carefull about the angle or is the lether soft enough it does not matter (within reason) Also, how hard do you push? Thanks for the other feedback as well. |
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#5
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Keep the blade flat to the leather and at the end of the stroke DO NOT roll the knife off, you will be rolling the edge as well......get to the end of the stroke and lift!
__________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/daviddunlap |
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#6
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Those Pfeil tools only need stropping I would never use grit paper of any kind on them. Pfeil seem to stay sharp forever with minimum amount of stropping they are definatly my tool of choice. Colin
__________________ Great minds speak about idea's. Small minds speak about people. http://woodspiritcarver.netfirms.com |
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#7
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Pull, don't push, or the tool will slice into the leather strop. Try to duplicate the existing angle, and like Hi-Ho said, don't roll it at the end of your stroke, rather lift it off without changing the angle. It's amazing how much you can do with just a strop and compound! Wade |
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#8
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If you glue your leather strop down to a piece of wood, it makes it easier to do. I use pfeil tools too. I love them. You'll be surprised at how your carvings will improve! Thor |
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#9
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You will have best results if you strop both the inside and outside of the curve on gouges. A thin piece of leather can be glued onto dowels of various diameters (for the inside curve) or use some soft wood (bass wood) and make your own, with the home made wooden strops they can also be wide enough to clamp into a vise and you can then use two hands for control when stroping. I also cut a long slot into soft wood with the new gouge, rub in some green Chromium Oxide buffing compound and use this for the outside curve strop. It is very important advice to NOT roll the chisel/gouge at the end of your stroping travel/stroke/path, this will dub or round the edge and you will loose that razor sharp feeling. Regards, Fred Krow |
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#10
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Now that you have new tools and sharp ones at that, can we see what you have carved with them??? ![]() Bob
__________________ Before they slip me over the standing part of the fore sheet, I'd like to pipe: "Up Spirits" or "Splice the Main Brace" .....................one more time. http://community.webshots.com/user/squbrigg link to Gallery photos http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...user/2823/sl/s |
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