[TommyPhillips]

Hello, all. I'm relatively new to carving, and I have a question about technique.

I bought Rick Butz's How to Carve Wood on the advice of several people, and have been working on some of his projects, trying out techniques, and basically making a joyful mess. I have a few Flexcut knives and palm gouges that I am using, and I work pretty hard at keeping everything sharp.

The main thing I am working on right now is the mountain hermit figure from the book. I cut the blank on the band saw and started slicing. The feet and legs are starting to come into shape, but I'm running into a problem getting the narrow opening between the legs right. (I alomst titled this post "Between the Legs", but I didn't want anyone to think I was being indelicate .) The more I cut, the more ragged and frayed it all looks. Of course, the first thing I did was hone the knife, then sharpened it on a stone when honing didn't work. It didn't seem to help much.

So, can someone give me some advice on how to make those cuts up into the grain in a narrow space such as this? I know I'm doing something wrong, but I can't seem to figure it out on my own.

Thank you very much.

-Tommy Phillips

[Mitchell]

I don't remember the pattern, but can pretty much picture what you are describing....

Those types of cuts ARE difficult to make cleanly and this is a very good question. You should get lots of "ideas".

MY opinion: Make sure that you angle the knive enough to have room to work in. Use a downward cut from the top and try to have a little curve in your first cut. This will be in effect the stop cut. Don't make it too deep or this will cause more loose fibers. Anyway, then go at it from the other side and try to match the depth of the first cut. If you are going to cut all the way through, you can make a stop cut across the grain at the top of the open area and cut towards it.

I sometimes use a small flat gouge (2mm #3 for example) to make a stop cut across the grain at the top of the cut - especially if I want the opening to go all the way through.

I have a "special" rounded #3 that is about 1/2" that I use for this purpose also. I use it to "stab" into the opening at an angle from one side the cut back from the other. This makes a relatively nice clean "V" between areas such as legs and arms.

A third(?) option is to use a burn tip to clean out the fuzzies later. It seems that I'm trying to sell tools doesn't it?

You are not doing anything wrong really. I expect that you are having a problem because you are making repeated cuts in the same area. The more you cut, the more frayed wood you're producing. You'll get better on how to judge the depth and at which angle to hold the knife with experience. You may want to use some scrap wood and practice these cuts to gain experience.

That's my 2 cents. Not much help, but at least it gets the discussion started.

[rick-in-seattle]

Gee-wiz Mitch, you covered every possible option; you didn't leave anything for me.

[Canopener]

Welcome Tommy,
This is a tough one. First of all, I carefully drill out the area to save time. Second Mitchell is right about finding the "special tool". The best things for me are a sharp veiner or maybe a v-tool. A skew chisel works well here also. Also keep in mind the pants are not smooth, and will have creases here. Turn your boo-boo's into brilliance. Keep at it and have fun.
Jim

[Kenny_S]

I use a 1 mm V tool and a 1.5 mm gouge, Then if warrents a bigger gouge or V tool then I up it the mm. I do both front and back. short strokes both up and then down, up. down, till I meet the front and back, then knife work.

[squbrigg]

How about a different approach....try a small diamond file. They are great for cleaning up those tight places. Not expensive, they come in sets of different shapes and last a long time. I use them a lot on Celtic Knots, dragons, ships and such.

Bob

[TommyPhillips]

It seems like maybe the biggest mistake I was making was trying to carve up into the grain, rather than down from the top of the crotch. I'll try that for a while, and I'll try the V-tool idea also. I have some small files that might work, too.

I appreciate the help. Sometimes, just knowing that there is a solution is enough encouragement to keep you going.

-Tommy Phillips

[Blake Lunsford]

I'm glad you asked that question because I have been looking for the same answer! I've found that sharp tools also make a huge difference. I purchased some tools this last weekend that make cuts that I could never make before. These folks will definitely lead you in the right direction!

Great !
Blake

[Thomp]

No Carver professe's to using A-xcto Blades even occasionaly, but i do.
here the 5th blade from the left i find very accomidating in tight places, its sharp edege is inside the hook, not used for much work becuse its flemsy, but it preforms well where others wont in tight quarters.

I have several pressed into handles i made from scraps and epoxied there,
not much to look at but it works,

after some time i learned only the front 1/4" of the blade needs to be honed and resharpened when needed, and you may find it necessary to round over the back edege to keep from creasing..

For filing i use diamond fingernail file or strips of sandpaper mounted in a coping saw frame

[squbrigg]

Sorry to disagree Thomp, but this carver uses Exacto blades regurlarly, even sharpen them. Inside curve, outside curve and square top blades the most, and the square topped blade most of all on my ship models. 100% of the planking is cut to length and trimmed using a square top, #11 I think it's called. Use what works.

Bob