Krylon doesn't dry

[Joggernot]

I think I'm up to dumb question 108 by now...

I used acrylic paint thinned to a wash on my basswood carvings; followed by BLO (Gene's method); and then sprayed with Krylon Matte (new can). It has been 7 days and the stuff is still sticky. Deft isn't available here (Internet only unless I want to drive 70 miles and then there is no guarantee they'll have it). Minwax lacquer worked until I ran out, so I grabbed the Krylon. I now live by the Gulf, so humidity is around 70%.

Before I really mess it up, here're my questions.

Is this recoverable? Do I have to strip the Krylon and start over? If so, how, without damaging the paint? Can I overspray with some Deft or Minwax and that will magically fix it?

Joggernot

[AlArchie]

You probably have an incompatibiliyt problem with the Krylon over BLO. Or the BLO had not cured before you applied the Krylon. My bet would be incompatibility..

If you spray on a lacquer based finish now, it will totally screw up the Krylon....bubble up, crackle and worse.

If you are sure that that the acrylic paint was fully cured, you may be able to remove that tacky Krylon with paint thinner wiped on wth a soft cloth. That may affect the BLO too, but not the acrylic.

High humidity slows the cure time of BLO. The stuff never does "dry" but cures (oxidizes) which is a chemical process that takes some time.


I don't quite understand the reason for using BLO as a coat under another finish, when there are so many other products available.

Al

[Nomad]

I had this problem once. I think it was caused by not allowing the BLO enough time to cure. Now I wait at least several days.

[Magicman]

Were you trying to use the Blo as an antiqueing process? I ask because you said per Genes method.
Larry

[Whittled Thumb]

I use water and pastel chalks. I shave the chalk color I want onto a piece of paper and dab it in some water. This way I get the washed look with a trillion color combinations to chose from when I mix them. So far it has worked for me! You can also use murphys oil soap instead of water.

[HbgBill]

I'll bet I knew at one time.. but, leaky brain syndrom (LBS)

What is BLO????

Edit: Ah, just came to me.. embarrassing..

Boiled Linseed Oil. I still use it occasionally.. but never had a problem covering with it. Make sure it is BOILED Linseed Oil.. not just simply linseed oil. If you used Linseed Oil (not boiled) you can usually fix the problem with the addition of Japan Hardener... as I remember.

[Lynn O. Doughty]

Best solution is to accept a hard lesson and then toss out the BLO. Like Archie, I too just cannot understand why carvers continue to use that stuff. My Gawd! With all the products now available for wood finishing why use something meant for hoe handles. Did you know that it is mixed with sawdust to make Linoleum? Now that's certainly the stuff I want to put on my carvings!!! NOT!! If you want to seal something then buy something that is actually meant to seal...not something that never completely dries, gathers dust like crazy over time, and is edible to bugs and even humans. Yep....it's also a food additive. Oh....and if rags with the stuff are left around they can combust on their own and burn up not only your carving but the house you had it setting in!

[Steve Reed]

Personally I love the look of BLO on basswood. I use it as a base coat before I use acrylics. After I'm done, I shoot the whole thing with Americana matte finish. After about a day, shoot it with Deft. Used to use Krylon 1311, but they changed the formula. Works for me.
Just my opinion, others may differ.

[Shimmy]

I can't believe people go thru all that stuff on a woodcarving .First of all it smells up the whole house .And what Lynn said is true.Acrylic paint and then Krylon Matte and I am done. Also I think you are spraying to close and getting a heavy build up.Better using 2-3 light sprays

[AlArchie]

I didn't mean to impune anyone who does use BLO...I just don't understand WHY! If it's a soft "antique" look you are after, you can add oil paint bases to most any good quality varnish to get the warm look of antiquing with BLO, and you can adjust the hue to exactly what you want by choosing different clors and shades of the oil tint and varying the amount addeed to your varnish. I honestly don't know about adding those colors to lacquers but there probably is a way to do that, too.

A neutral or light pine stain on basswood will pretty much give the same warm effect that you get with BLO. Or Golden Oak gives a slightly darker tint to the raw wood. It can be very interesting to play around with various stains to give some very dramatic effects on any type carving.

I hate to keep putting this carving up but I like it, and it's a good reference for the use of stains to give a warm look (antique?) to the background and several different shades for the engine. The background was stained with a light application of golden oak. That is just a shade darker than the natural old white pine in the beam and it adds just the right warm look to the piece.


Al