Hollowing out a 24" long maple log

[APhillipsPhoto]

Hello everyone,

I am a sculpture trying to figure something out. I am trying to hollow out a 24" maple log. I have been told there is multiple ways to hollow out a log but I do not want to spend the time or money to try them all. Does anyone have a specific way to do this or am I stuck trying multiple ways? Thanks

[FIT BMX]

How big is it?

[Robson Valley]

If you already know of several methods, pick one and get on with it.
I can easily hollow out a western red cedar log of any diameter as the core (40% - 80%)
is punky rotten in most cases. The most exciting cases are when I run into a wasp nest.

Maple? If it is sound in the middle, you have a major task ahead of you. Makes no difference how you get there.

[mobjack68]

Not knowing anything about the carving you intend??
Can you cut it in half...along the length, hollow it (chainsaw...adz..router...gouge...) and then glue it back together??
If you "skil saw" a kerf as deep as the blade will cut, saw cuts 180 degrees (across from each other) and then split the log, you will have a pretty close matching saw cut to glue to???

If that won't work..get a spade bit and a couple of extensions...the one's the electricians use when installing outlets post-construction, designed to catch and hold the hex end of the spade bit....drill some strategically placed holes...slight overlap, keeping the centerpoint of the drill bit in good wood all the time...you can drill a circle of holes close to the circumference you need and the very center should just "fall out"....

[Donsexton]

If you dont have a chainsaw or dont have much experience with one. I agree a 3" forstener or spade bit I use mine to remove waste wood fast when I dont wnat to hear a chainsaw. Think how much wood you can remove with a 3" wide bit. I use augur bits as well to make relief holes in logs Line-Men have them up to 26" long 1 1/2" wide. You can split the log and hew it out with an adz or grinder. Plenty of other ways depends on your tool situation and skill level.

[wDonkey]

"auger drill bits" works wonder in thick wood (6"+), you dont have to apply much pressure and the drillbit kinda "feed itself", they're much more comfortable to work with than spades for this kind of project. also you're gonna have a hard time keeping the whole "clean" with a spade (and i never used s forstner so i can't tell about them)

heres the kind of auger drill bits im talking about :

I'd get a 1/2 drill for this project, the ones painter use for mixing their paint would be just fine. heres what im talking about :


Secure your work and by any mean HOLD that electric drill as much as you can, put your wrists in a way that if the drill bit "bite" it wont twist/break your wrist. (i use my legs whenever i can when using a big holesaw)
i remeber doing a job with a too short ladder, and when the bastard kicked i won a trip to the doctor and got 5 stitches on my right side brow ridge.

[Robson Valley]

wDonkey: That is a solution to the puzzle. Thank you.

24" of Maple end grain to chew out will be a major physical job.

The thought crossed my mind to split the log and reassemble & glue. However, any reassembly and I'd still be left with the saw kerf to fill. If the log was split, no sawing, that would work.

I've been trying to thin out a 1/2 cedar log for a partly finished mask. I'm exhausted. Lengthwise saw cuts with a bow saw then chisels/adze to get out what I can and go again.

[FIT BMX]

Here's a place sells long bits.
Auger Bits - Long from Log Home Store